07-09-09
The rain had stopped by teatime and I decided to go to the waterfront for the evening meal. I had fish grilled in a banana leaf and it was delicious. The rain bounced down while I was eating so my feet were soaked again as I walked back to the guesthouse. The restaurant was advertising two for one during happy hour and that was a good enough excuse to go and have gin and tonic. They obviously don't serve them very often as there was quite a bit of panic over the order. I finally got them to bring me some ice after a whole lot of talking with the waitress.
Hue 08-09-09
The bus arrived early for Hue and I was told to get on it quickly. I hadn't paid for my room so he had to wait. We then drove round the corner where I had to get off! I could have walked.
The bus was the sleeper bus from Nha Trang and I thought it smelt of sweaty feet until I realised that the smell was coming from my still wet sandals. Rather disgusting!
I'd booked my room on the internet the day before so the guy from the hotel picked me up from the bus station, which was very handy. He'd already met three buses as I hadn't told him which one I would be on, only that it was coming from Hoi An. The only room for $12 (including breakfast) was on the fourth floor - eighty steps up. It was a lovely room and she offered to change to a lower floor the next day. It also had a bath which was a lovely change. Unfortunately I could only get a small amount of hot water to run into the bath.
I was informed that there was a big supermarket near by so off I set with my trusty umbrella as it was still raining. I found it easy enough but was told that I had to put my umbrella and book in the lockers - fair enough. Then when I went to go in again, I was told that my handbag had to be sealed in a plastic bag!! That was going a bit too far and I took my things and went off in a huff!
I walked then over the Perfumed River and found another supermarket where the treatment was totally different! I was just waved through with bags and umbrella. The rain had stopped when I came out and it turned into a lovely afternoon.
09-09-09
I got up nice and early, had breakfast (which was included in the room price as long as you didn't order too much!) and went to the Citadel - another world heritage site. That was really enjoyable and took all morning to explore. (I hadn't bothered changing rooms as it was too much trouble). I went back to the hotel and had a rest as it was really hot in the afternoon. I then picked up my laundry, booked my ticket to Hanoi for the next night and also booked for a river trip to see some villages and tombs. I went on the internet to book a room at Citygate Hotel as it was highly recommended by the Lonely Planet. There were several reviews on the hotel - all bad - so I emailed Hanoibackpackers Hostel instead and asked for a dorm bed. As it was much cooler by then I took a walk down my the river, which was really pleasant.
When I got back to the hotel after dinner, I saw someone who'd been everywhere I'd been - Saigon, Da Lat and Hoi An. He was travelling with his friend and they were both Belgian. It was only polite to sit and have a drink with them!
10-09-09
I got picked up for the trip and dropped off at another hotel where I was asked if I would like to transfer to another tour going to the Citadel and then the tombs. It didn't include a sail up the river so I said no, along with a French couple. We were then walked down to the river and put on a boat. It was a lovely sail so I'm glad I did it. We saw a kung fu demonstration, then a couple of temples and pagodas. I was saving myself for the tombs so just sat quietly by the river instead of climbing up lots of stairs! Lunch was included with the fare - noodles, rice, vegetables and tofu. Quite tasty but could have eaten more!
I'm glad I saved myself as there were many stairs up to the two emperors' tombs but they were well worth the effort. The first one was typically Vietnamese but the second one had been designed by French and Chinese architects so it was completely different. They were both excellent. After that we went to see a village where they made conical hats and incense sticks. The latter must be the most boring job on earth as she just rolled some paste round a stick and then started on the next one!
I got back about 4:30, just in time to have a sandwich before catching the night bus at 6 pm. Usually you are allocated beds on the night bus but not on this one. There was only one down bed left and I sat on that one. I was told I couldn't have that but the guy was told there was no way I could climb up to the top beds and I was stopping there. I could have climbed up but the beds are quite narrow and you get thrown about a lot on the top bunks (at least that is what I've been told). So far, that was the least comfortable bus and the driver never took his hand off the horn of all night! Plus I think he deliberately found all the potholes and ramps.
Hanoi 11-09-09
While I was checking in, a guy was told that the Halong Bay was cancelled due to bad weather. I think it is following me! My dorm is on the second floor with six beds in but only mine is occupied at the moment.
My backpack was looking the worse for wear (it is ten years old) and my trainers have a couple of tears in them and Hanoi apparently is the city to replace them. I got instructions off the girl on the desk and went looking for the shops.
I should have worn my trainers with the orthotics in as it was no good trying shoes on without them. I saw a nice backpack, 55 litres, supposedly North Face for ten pounds. It's bigger than my present one but didn't look it. I said I would be back, got my old trainers and went looking for some new ones. I tried on several pairs and settled for a pair of Nikes as they felt the most comfortable. They cost me fifteen pounds after I'd bargained a bit! I think they may be seconds as some of the eyelet holes need punching through. A guy at the hotel looked at the soles and said they looked genuine enough. I don't care if the are or not as long as they are comfortable!
It's about 3 pm and although it has rained a little, it hasn't been as bad as forecast. That may come later. I've got my umbrella and I am now off to do some more exploring.
Friday 11 September 2009
Monday 7 September 2009
Da Lat to Hoi An
05-09-09
Boy am I glad I decided to leave Da Lat! The weather was cold and windy and of course the air-con on the bus worked a treat. Never does when it’s really hot!! We went downhill for about two hours before we stopped for a meal and when I got off the bus it was beautiful and warm again.
The whole journey took about four hours and usually when you arrive someone has a hotel – not this time. I got a taxi to drop me off at the train station – the ticket office was closed until 13:30 and it was just gone noon. I checked the train times but there was nothing for Hoi An and when I looked at the map, the line bypasses Hoi An and goes to Danang higher up. I needed a taxi then to the long distance bus station and some clever dick asked for 100,000 dong. I’d just paid 10,000 so there was no way it was that much. I said to take my bags out of the taxi and got one out before another man said OK, 10,000. He then dropped me back at the original bus station which doesn’t go to Hoi An! I asked for directions and was told it was about 2 kms so off I went. It wasn’t too far but boy was it hot again. When I finally got to the office the girl asked did I want to go that night. I booked the sleeping bus ticket there and then, hoping that it wouldn’t be full and I could have a bed to myself.
I left the bags at the office and took a walk to the beach. I was sorry then I’d booked to leave that night as it was really nice and there were loads of guesthouses I could have stayed at. It was nice to see the sea as that was the first time in all the trip. The beach looked nice and clean and there were several islands out in the bay. Too late, the booking was made.
I got back to the office in good time and to my relief, the sleeping bus was all single beds! A bit on the neat side but I managed to sleep well enough. It rained solidly all night.
06-09-09
We arrived at Hoi An at approximately 6:30, stopping right outside Sea Star guesthouse who happened to hav a room for $10. If I’d only looked over the road a little, there was a hotel with a swimming pool which would probably would not have cost much more. Not to worry, I have a hot shower, fan and TV.
After a shower it was time to go exploring. The rain had stopped by then so first was breakfast and then have a look at the river. Apparently here is the place to get made-to-measure clothing and hand-made shoes but the shop keepers drive you potty asking you all the time to buy from them, What part of ‘no’ don’t they understand?
I bought a ticket for the old town attractions. You have the choice of which ones to go in but you cannot go in all of them unless you pay more money – strange. I booked to go to My Son Monday, another World Heritage site, and a ticket to Hue Tuesday. I walked over the bridge to one of the islands then walked back again. The rain came again so the sightseeing went on hold and into a restaurant for the Hoi An specialities. There was a fixed price menu so it was possible to try the ‘white rose’ – steamed shrimp dumplings as well as ‘cau lau’ – flat noodles with pork, croutons and bean sprouts in savoury broth - and fried wonton. They were OK, I tried them but I won’t be having them again!
07-09-09
I got up nice and early for the trip – 04:15. It was hammering it down then and it hasn’t stopped all day! I had my waterproof jacket on but it dripped onto my shorts and worked its way up. One young man hadn’t even a plastic mac with him so I lent him my umbrella.
My Son was very interesting but would have been more interesting with better weather. It was set in lovely surroundings and was an ancient Cham city which became a religious centre in the late 4th century and lasted until the 13th century. At least there weren’t too many tourists there – infact there were only the four of us off our bus.
I got back about 9:30 and it was still raining. Had a shower then went over the road for breakfast. Still raining – everybody here wears plastic flip-flops – now I know why! My sandals were soaked. I went on the internet – still raining. I needed to go into town to change some money – still raining. The bank was closed for lunch – the rain was absolutely bouncing down with rivers running down the street so I just had to go and have a coffee. I did think about a beer but decided against it.
The rain finally eased off about 13:35 so I took the chance of seeing a couple of the sights in town. As the rain started to get heavier again, I changed money then came back to the hotel to write this up. There is nothing else to do in this weather as there is no pleasure in paddling through torrents of rainwater rushing down the streets!
Boy am I glad I decided to leave Da Lat! The weather was cold and windy and of course the air-con on the bus worked a treat. Never does when it’s really hot!! We went downhill for about two hours before we stopped for a meal and when I got off the bus it was beautiful and warm again.
The whole journey took about four hours and usually when you arrive someone has a hotel – not this time. I got a taxi to drop me off at the train station – the ticket office was closed until 13:30 and it was just gone noon. I checked the train times but there was nothing for Hoi An and when I looked at the map, the line bypasses Hoi An and goes to Danang higher up. I needed a taxi then to the long distance bus station and some clever dick asked for 100,000 dong. I’d just paid 10,000 so there was no way it was that much. I said to take my bags out of the taxi and got one out before another man said OK, 10,000. He then dropped me back at the original bus station which doesn’t go to Hoi An! I asked for directions and was told it was about 2 kms so off I went. It wasn’t too far but boy was it hot again. When I finally got to the office the girl asked did I want to go that night. I booked the sleeping bus ticket there and then, hoping that it wouldn’t be full and I could have a bed to myself.
I left the bags at the office and took a walk to the beach. I was sorry then I’d booked to leave that night as it was really nice and there were loads of guesthouses I could have stayed at. It was nice to see the sea as that was the first time in all the trip. The beach looked nice and clean and there were several islands out in the bay. Too late, the booking was made.
I got back to the office in good time and to my relief, the sleeping bus was all single beds! A bit on the neat side but I managed to sleep well enough. It rained solidly all night.
06-09-09
We arrived at Hoi An at approximately 6:30, stopping right outside Sea Star guesthouse who happened to hav a room for $10. If I’d only looked over the road a little, there was a hotel with a swimming pool which would probably would not have cost much more. Not to worry, I have a hot shower, fan and TV.
After a shower it was time to go exploring. The rain had stopped by then so first was breakfast and then have a look at the river. Apparently here is the place to get made-to-measure clothing and hand-made shoes but the shop keepers drive you potty asking you all the time to buy from them, What part of ‘no’ don’t they understand?
I bought a ticket for the old town attractions. You have the choice of which ones to go in but you cannot go in all of them unless you pay more money – strange. I booked to go to My Son Monday, another World Heritage site, and a ticket to Hue Tuesday. I walked over the bridge to one of the islands then walked back again. The rain came again so the sightseeing went on hold and into a restaurant for the Hoi An specialities. There was a fixed price menu so it was possible to try the ‘white rose’ – steamed shrimp dumplings as well as ‘cau lau’ – flat noodles with pork, croutons and bean sprouts in savoury broth - and fried wonton. They were OK, I tried them but I won’t be having them again!
07-09-09
I got up nice and early for the trip – 04:15. It was hammering it down then and it hasn’t stopped all day! I had my waterproof jacket on but it dripped onto my shorts and worked its way up. One young man hadn’t even a plastic mac with him so I lent him my umbrella.
My Son was very interesting but would have been more interesting with better weather. It was set in lovely surroundings and was an ancient Cham city which became a religious centre in the late 4th century and lasted until the 13th century. At least there weren’t too many tourists there – infact there were only the four of us off our bus.
I got back about 9:30 and it was still raining. Had a shower then went over the road for breakfast. Still raining – everybody here wears plastic flip-flops – now I know why! My sandals were soaked. I went on the internet – still raining. I needed to go into town to change some money – still raining. The bank was closed for lunch – the rain was absolutely bouncing down with rivers running down the street so I just had to go and have a coffee. I did think about a beer but decided against it.
The rain finally eased off about 13:35 so I took the chance of seeing a couple of the sights in town. As the rain started to get heavier again, I changed money then came back to the hotel to write this up. There is nothing else to do in this weather as there is no pleasure in paddling through torrents of rainwater rushing down the streets!
I will leave Tuesday morning at 07:30 and hope the weather is better in Hue. I'm not holding my breath though as the weather forecast for the whole of South East Asia is for more rain, due to a tropical storm off the coast of the Phillipines.
Saigon to Da Lat
As I was checking out of the hotel Madame Cuc stopped to have a word. If ever a woman was a Madame, it was her! She asked if I’d enjoyed staying at her hotel, which I can honestly say I did and she told the girls to give me a bottle of water and some bananas for the journey. How kind of her!
The journey was really good climbing to the Central Highlands and it was nice to see mountains again. Da Lat was a very pretty city with lots of flowers and gardens. When you book a ticket with the bus company, you get transport to your hotel thrown in. As I didn’t have a booking, they suggested the Pink Hotel which was $10 a night. If I didn’t like it they would take me somewhere else. The hotel was fine and I got a huge room with a balcony (only small but a balcony) with TV and hot shower. There was no fan or air-con which I found out later was surplus to requirements as it was really cold at night (probably down to about 20C!). Luckily my fleece was at the bottom of my backpack along with my waterproof jacket – both needed in Da Lat). I walked down into the town and had a quick look around but it was getting dark so I went back to the hotel and had an early night – just for a change!
04-09-09
Breakfast was included – choice of a cheese sandwich and one drink off the menu. I got directions off the boy behind the desk and managed to find the market and the shopping streets. I called in at the tourist information and got a map. The Lonely Planet said there was a railway so I set off to find it. I managed, much to my surprise and saw an engine revving up ready to go. I hurried down (well strolled quickly) and was told to climb on. The passenger carriage door was closed and I was ushered into the engine bit – first class treatment – they obviously realised I’m a classy person! When we got to Trai Mat village, the engine driver told me to follow the tour guide and his party to go and see the Linh Phuoc pagoda and be back in 30 minutes.
Apparently on some days in February and into March there was a halo of light behind the pagoda. It must have been some spectacle and I wish I had bought some postcards of it but I was being rushed back to the train. Going back was even better as the engine was going backwards and I had a clear view out of the open door. Because Da Lat is 1500m above sea level and it gets plenty of rain, the climate is very suitable for growing all kinds of fruit and vegetables and the export flowers to Japan and Hong Kong. There were greenhouses everywhere and more land being terraced to put more up.
I walked back into town and had a meal at the V Café – fish and chips but not as we know it! The fish was cut into small pieces and then battered. It was very tasty but not quite what I wanted. I took what I thought was the right road back to the hotel but instead of turning left I went right and walked for miles out of my way. I finally got on the right one and got back just before the rain started.
I needed to eat so the boy got me a taxi into town. The first restaurant I went in to was thick with smoke so out I cane. I’d just finished my meal when I spotted the Belgian couple who had been on the Mekong trip and staying at the same hotel in Saigon. They had been to Mui Ne where it had cost them $125 a night but they said it had been worth every cent as they had their own villa and swimming pool. Now it was back to reality with a $10 room!
The weather forecast was pretty dire so I decided to go to Nha Trang the next day. The boy booked my ticket and said the transport would pick me up at 7:30 am.
The journey was really good climbing to the Central Highlands and it was nice to see mountains again. Da Lat was a very pretty city with lots of flowers and gardens. When you book a ticket with the bus company, you get transport to your hotel thrown in. As I didn’t have a booking, they suggested the Pink Hotel which was $10 a night. If I didn’t like it they would take me somewhere else. The hotel was fine and I got a huge room with a balcony (only small but a balcony) with TV and hot shower. There was no fan or air-con which I found out later was surplus to requirements as it was really cold at night (probably down to about 20C!). Luckily my fleece was at the bottom of my backpack along with my waterproof jacket – both needed in Da Lat). I walked down into the town and had a quick look around but it was getting dark so I went back to the hotel and had an early night – just for a change!
04-09-09
Breakfast was included – choice of a cheese sandwich and one drink off the menu. I got directions off the boy behind the desk and managed to find the market and the shopping streets. I called in at the tourist information and got a map. The Lonely Planet said there was a railway so I set off to find it. I managed, much to my surprise and saw an engine revving up ready to go. I hurried down (well strolled quickly) and was told to climb on. The passenger carriage door was closed and I was ushered into the engine bit – first class treatment – they obviously realised I’m a classy person! When we got to Trai Mat village, the engine driver told me to follow the tour guide and his party to go and see the Linh Phuoc pagoda and be back in 30 minutes.
Apparently on some days in February and into March there was a halo of light behind the pagoda. It must have been some spectacle and I wish I had bought some postcards of it but I was being rushed back to the train. Going back was even better as the engine was going backwards and I had a clear view out of the open door. Because Da Lat is 1500m above sea level and it gets plenty of rain, the climate is very suitable for growing all kinds of fruit and vegetables and the export flowers to Japan and Hong Kong. There were greenhouses everywhere and more land being terraced to put more up.
I walked back into town and had a meal at the V Café – fish and chips but not as we know it! The fish was cut into small pieces and then battered. It was very tasty but not quite what I wanted. I took what I thought was the right road back to the hotel but instead of turning left I went right and walked for miles out of my way. I finally got on the right one and got back just before the rain started.
I needed to eat so the boy got me a taxi into town. The first restaurant I went in to was thick with smoke so out I cane. I’d just finished my meal when I spotted the Belgian couple who had been on the Mekong trip and staying at the same hotel in Saigon. They had been to Mui Ne where it had cost them $125 a night but they said it had been worth every cent as they had their own villa and swimming pool. Now it was back to reality with a $10 room!
The weather forecast was pretty dire so I decided to go to Nha Trang the next day. The boy booked my ticket and said the transport would pick me up at 7:30 am.
Thursday 3 September 2009
Saigon 31-08-09
I got up early and walked to the War Remnants Museum, There were tanks, planes and helicopters in the grounds plus a replica of the ‘tiger cages’ they used to keep prisoners in. They were wire mesh boxes with barbed wire around them and no room to stand up or lie down. Inside were the details of the US war with Vietnam. Quite harrowing.
I walked around town and found the Saigon River but the traffic was too horrendous for me to attempt to cross the road for a closer look! I get taken by the hand by many people who are willing to help the poor old dear cross over!!!
01-09-09
I booked a Mekong Delta trip as it wasn’t too expensive. It took us nearly three hours to get to the river because of all the traffic leaving the city. We got a decent sized boat over to one of the islands where we were shown a beehive and how they got the honey out – not a mask or protective clothing in sight. We were all offered honey tea and hoenyed fruits then told the price of the products. I turned round to see the guide taking out a boa constrictor out of a glass cage and draping round a little Australian boy’s neck. He looked petrified but once we all started taking photos he calmed down. There was an even bigger on brought out. I touched it but no way was anybody draping that round me.
We walked through the jungle (well it was a tree-lined path) to a tropical fruit farm where again there were a lot of free samples. Next was a ride on a very small boat. I told them there was no way I was getting in one of them, even if it meant I had to stay on the island forever. It was quite a long drop down to the boat and there was about two inches of boat above the river and that was before I got in – so no it was not going to happen. The guide tooke me back to the village where he put me on the back of a motorbike. I think the small boat may have been a slightly better option! I survived and joined up with the rest of the tour. After lunch it was free time to walk or cycle to the village. I walked as far as the school, where the pupils were just starting the afternoon session but the traffic was as bad as in Saigon. It was unbelievable.
Most of us ont the tour opted to go back by speedboat. That was fantastic as we first went down the Mekong and then up another couple of connecting rivers until we got to the Saigon River. We were hoping to see the sunset but the rain came hammering down. It’s done that every teatime in Saigon. I got soaked going for the bus and then from the bus to the hotel. A shower and a change of clothes was all it took to feel better. The rain had stopped by then so I walked round to and Indian café where he advertised four vegetarian courses and a soft drink for 25,000 dong (29,000 to the pound). The beer was nearly as dear as the meal and it was really good. I didn’t fancy noodles and spring rolls again.
02-09-09
I went to the market to try to buy a couple of blouses at a price I was willing to pay as I hate haggling. Away from the tourist bit are the regular stalls with ‘fixed price’ notices. The same tops that the tourist bit wanted $17.5 for I got for $5 which I thought was a fair price. They will probably fall to bits after a couple of washings but what the hell, they were cheap enough. I decided to go to Dalat in the Central Highlands for a couple of days so booked a ticket through the hotel. It works out a bit dearer but transport to the bus station is provided then.
I had laundry which needed doing but it was Liberation Day and a holiday for most people so they all said the laundry would be ready the next day, which was no good. I remembered I’d seen one near the market that promised same day so that’s where I took it. I was supposed to pick it up at 17:30 but got held up. When I got there she was closed! Luckily there was a sign saying it could be picked up at the book store a few doors down. I’d had most of my clothes laundered so I would have been in a right pickle without them.
I walked around town and found the Saigon River but the traffic was too horrendous for me to attempt to cross the road for a closer look! I get taken by the hand by many people who are willing to help the poor old dear cross over!!!
01-09-09
I booked a Mekong Delta trip as it wasn’t too expensive. It took us nearly three hours to get to the river because of all the traffic leaving the city. We got a decent sized boat over to one of the islands where we were shown a beehive and how they got the honey out – not a mask or protective clothing in sight. We were all offered honey tea and hoenyed fruits then told the price of the products. I turned round to see the guide taking out a boa constrictor out of a glass cage and draping round a little Australian boy’s neck. He looked petrified but once we all started taking photos he calmed down. There was an even bigger on brought out. I touched it but no way was anybody draping that round me.
We walked through the jungle (well it was a tree-lined path) to a tropical fruit farm where again there were a lot of free samples. Next was a ride on a very small boat. I told them there was no way I was getting in one of them, even if it meant I had to stay on the island forever. It was quite a long drop down to the boat and there was about two inches of boat above the river and that was before I got in – so no it was not going to happen. The guide tooke me back to the village where he put me on the back of a motorbike. I think the small boat may have been a slightly better option! I survived and joined up with the rest of the tour. After lunch it was free time to walk or cycle to the village. I walked as far as the school, where the pupils were just starting the afternoon session but the traffic was as bad as in Saigon. It was unbelievable.
Most of us ont the tour opted to go back by speedboat. That was fantastic as we first went down the Mekong and then up another couple of connecting rivers until we got to the Saigon River. We were hoping to see the sunset but the rain came hammering down. It’s done that every teatime in Saigon. I got soaked going for the bus and then from the bus to the hotel. A shower and a change of clothes was all it took to feel better. The rain had stopped by then so I walked round to and Indian café where he advertised four vegetarian courses and a soft drink for 25,000 dong (29,000 to the pound). The beer was nearly as dear as the meal and it was really good. I didn’t fancy noodles and spring rolls again.
02-09-09
I went to the market to try to buy a couple of blouses at a price I was willing to pay as I hate haggling. Away from the tourist bit are the regular stalls with ‘fixed price’ notices. The same tops that the tourist bit wanted $17.5 for I got for $5 which I thought was a fair price. They will probably fall to bits after a couple of washings but what the hell, they were cheap enough. I decided to go to Dalat in the Central Highlands for a couple of days so booked a ticket through the hotel. It works out a bit dearer but transport to the bus station is provided then.
I had laundry which needed doing but it was Liberation Day and a holiday for most people so they all said the laundry would be ready the next day, which was no good. I remembered I’d seen one near the market that promised same day so that’s where I took it. I was supposed to pick it up at 17:30 but got held up. When I got there she was closed! Luckily there was a sign saying it could be picked up at the book store a few doors down. I’d had most of my clothes laundered so I would have been in a right pickle without them.
Wednesday 2 September 2009
Phnom Penh to Chau Doc
28-08-09
Again the transport was late picking me and we got on a mini-bus for the two-hour drive to the boat on the Mekong River. Now I was expecting something like a smaller Greek ferry with a sun deck to lounge on. Wrong again – it was quite a small boat but looked solid enough and off we went down the Mekong at a great rate of knots for two hours. We had to fill in our details four times on separate sheets of paper and then a health check form and an entry/exit form. We got off at the Cambodian border where we were checked out of the country, got back on the boat for a short ride to the Vietnamese border where we were told to take off all our luggage and go through passport control. We were met by a very smiley lady who told us what to do, took all our passports and forms then told us to get something to eat while everything was checked. Easy!!
The next boat was even smaller with loose dining chairs for seats. We meandered down what looked like a canal, passing flooded rice paddies as we went. The lady told us that they were flooded from the July storms but luckily they had got all the rice before it happened. It was a lovely journey, passing small villages along the way. The lady just happened to have a guesthouse (don’t they all?) and would we like to stay there? It was only afterwards that I realised it was the one recommended by the Lonely Planet and I was going to stay there anyway.
Chau Doc has a terrific market for such a small town so I had a wander round but didn’t buy anything. It was time to eat, plenty of restaurants to choose from but it was easier to eat at the guesthouse.
29-08-09
I got up early as usual, had breakfast then went exploring. Chau Doc was a lot bigger than I first thought. I treated myself to a coffee at the best hotel in town (shouldn’t have as it cost me $3:60!), had a look round the Catholic church - all the saints had Asian faces – even Mary – then came back and booked a ticket to Ho Chi Minh City (I prefer Saigon really) for the next day. I was going to book a two day trip around the Mekong with a home stay overnight and then on to Saigon but the brochure showed little boats where the sides were barely out of the water so I chickened out!
Chau Doc to Saigon 30-08-09
I now know not to expect too much in the way of transport so I wasn’t too disappointed with a small cramped mini-bus! We had stopped in a village somewhere when the sliding door was slammed open and a crowd of people selling food poked their heads and wares in. When I looked up, I could see a river and we were waiting for the ferry to take us across. That was quite interesting. I thought there may have been more ferries but that was the only one. I don’t think our mini-bus had any springs as I was bounced around like nobody’s business. I’m sure the driver deliberately found all the potholes and ramps too!
I got a taxi from the bus station to Hotel 127 run by Mrs Cuc (pronounced ‘Cook’). She has several guesthouses in Saigon. The Lonely Planet says you get a warm welcome with the offer of tea, coffee or juice – and you do. I was taken to rooms over the road and shown a nice one on the 2nd floor at $20. I said I would prefer something cheaper, went up one floor to an even nicer room for $15. That overlooked the main street and had TV, fridge and HOT shower. Breakfast and evening meal were also in the price. I was quite excited about the free dinners - it turned out to be spring rolls and noodles every night – but as it bounced down the first night it was nice not to go looking for a place to eat!
Again the transport was late picking me and we got on a mini-bus for the two-hour drive to the boat on the Mekong River. Now I was expecting something like a smaller Greek ferry with a sun deck to lounge on. Wrong again – it was quite a small boat but looked solid enough and off we went down the Mekong at a great rate of knots for two hours. We had to fill in our details four times on separate sheets of paper and then a health check form and an entry/exit form. We got off at the Cambodian border where we were checked out of the country, got back on the boat for a short ride to the Vietnamese border where we were told to take off all our luggage and go through passport control. We were met by a very smiley lady who told us what to do, took all our passports and forms then told us to get something to eat while everything was checked. Easy!!
The next boat was even smaller with loose dining chairs for seats. We meandered down what looked like a canal, passing flooded rice paddies as we went. The lady told us that they were flooded from the July storms but luckily they had got all the rice before it happened. It was a lovely journey, passing small villages along the way. The lady just happened to have a guesthouse (don’t they all?) and would we like to stay there? It was only afterwards that I realised it was the one recommended by the Lonely Planet and I was going to stay there anyway.
Chau Doc has a terrific market for such a small town so I had a wander round but didn’t buy anything. It was time to eat, plenty of restaurants to choose from but it was easier to eat at the guesthouse.
29-08-09
I got up early as usual, had breakfast then went exploring. Chau Doc was a lot bigger than I first thought. I treated myself to a coffee at the best hotel in town (shouldn’t have as it cost me $3:60!), had a look round the Catholic church - all the saints had Asian faces – even Mary – then came back and booked a ticket to Ho Chi Minh City (I prefer Saigon really) for the next day. I was going to book a two day trip around the Mekong with a home stay overnight and then on to Saigon but the brochure showed little boats where the sides were barely out of the water so I chickened out!
Chau Doc to Saigon 30-08-09
I now know not to expect too much in the way of transport so I wasn’t too disappointed with a small cramped mini-bus! We had stopped in a village somewhere when the sliding door was slammed open and a crowd of people selling food poked their heads and wares in. When I looked up, I could see a river and we were waiting for the ferry to take us across. That was quite interesting. I thought there may have been more ferries but that was the only one. I don’t think our mini-bus had any springs as I was bounced around like nobody’s business. I’m sure the driver deliberately found all the potholes and ramps too!
I got a taxi from the bus station to Hotel 127 run by Mrs Cuc (pronounced ‘Cook’). She has several guesthouses in Saigon. The Lonely Planet says you get a warm welcome with the offer of tea, coffee or juice – and you do. I was taken to rooms over the road and shown a nice one on the 2nd floor at $20. I said I would prefer something cheaper, went up one floor to an even nicer room for $15. That overlooked the main street and had TV, fridge and HOT shower. Breakfast and evening meal were also in the price. I was quite excited about the free dinners - it turned out to be spring rolls and noodles every night – but as it bounced down the first night it was nice not to go looking for a place to eat!
Siem Reap to Phnom Penh
25-08-09
The mini-bus was late picking me up – so what’s new? We picked up several more along the way until we were full and then we picked up three more! The big bus set off on time then stopped round the corner to wait for some late (local) passengers.
There was a stop after about two hours in order to get something to eat. I’ve said before that noodles are not my perfect breakfast but I found an American-owned café just down the road from the bus stop and had a nice chicken sandwich which came with fries and salad. I was hungry so I ate the lot.
Arriving at Phnom Penh we were met by the usual hoard of tuk-tuk drivers. The one I chose told me he was Ken and he was the world champion tuk-tuk driver! He actually took me to the address I’d asked for – Number 9 Sisters. They had a room with fan and bathroom for $5 so I took it. Then he said he would move me to another room as the rain was coming and the room leaked! He let it out to someone else later though. Anyway, the guesthouse looked like beach huts except they were all joined together and had orchids growing up each side of the walkway. There was a seating area overlooking the lake where you could get meals and drinks – mosquitoes came free during the evening!!! It was a nice setting for all that.
I took a walk into the centre but as it was rush hour, the traffic was horrendous so I didn’t bother trying to cross the road. There were plenty restaurants around the guest house so I chose one that gave a free beer if your order was more than $3.
26-08-09
Up nice and early, had breakfast then set off for the Vietnamese embassy to get my visa. It was quite a long walk and when I got there I was told it was $35 for the visa and to pick it up at 16:30 that day. I wasn’t too impressed by this as some people I’d been talking to the day before had got one of the travel agencies to get theirs and it had only cost them $30 each and they hadn’t had to walk anywhere!
I went to the Russian market while I was waiting for the visa. It wasn’t too impressive. I had decided to get something to eat when the heavens opened and it bounced down for two solid hours. I found an internet café after that so spent more time sheltering from the rain.
I got something to eat when I got back and had another early night as I was tired after all the walking.
27-08-09
I had decided to go to the Killing Fields and museum so when the guesthouse owner said he would take me for $10 it seemed reasonable as the site was quite a long way out. It was very moving, especially the signs above the excavated graves and the stupa with shelves and shelves of skulls and bones. They had a video show as well telling the story of the Killing Fields and saying that they were all over Cambodia and not just at Phnom Penh.
Whilst in the souvenir shop an Australian heard my accent and asked where I came from. He was a salesman, originally from Oldham and he chatted for ages, telling me he played the guitar and his next door neighbour was Hank Marvin of the Shadows. He was also a big fan of George Formby – I certainly bump into some characters!
I got back in the tuk-tuk and suddenly realised I was nearly back at the guesthouse.
Me: “I thought you were taking me to the museum”?
Driver: “No madam, I asked you and you said you didn’t want to go”.
Me: “No you didn’t and I wouldn’t say no. You have cheated me”.
Driver: “Madam you are old and you forget”!
I will not write down my reply but you can imagine there were a few choice words of Anglo-Saxon origin!!
I stamped off in high dudgeon then and went into town. I found a shopping centre that had second-hand books for $2. I keep swapping books after I’ve read them but I was getting a bit low so treated myself to a couple.
After lunch I went to the Royal Palace. Luckily I’d read in the Lonely Planet that you can not go in unless you arms are covered and I had a polo shirt with me. There was a lot of the palace closed off to visitors but there was enough open to tire me out once again. As I was walking through the photographic exhibition, a monkey came strolling in off the street. Unfortunately by the time I’d realised, he had disappeared but when I got to the main street, there was an elephant being walked along by his keeper – you don’t get that in Preston town centre!
I went down to Tonle Sap to see how much the river trips were but as they wanted $10 for one hour I decided against it. I was approached by a man in his thirties and asked if I spoke English. Apparently he’d been on the bus from Siem Reap and had fallen asleep. Someone had helped themselves to his wallet and credit cards but it was too late for him to get money transferred from home and meanwhile could I possibly let him have a couple of dollars? I gave him $5 because he told a good story and like my Mum always says ‘It’s only money’.
I then beat the tuk-tuk driver down to $1 for the ride back home but gave him extra because I’d got it at my price!
I booked my boat ticket to Chau Doc in Vietnam for the next morning.
The mini-bus was late picking me up – so what’s new? We picked up several more along the way until we were full and then we picked up three more! The big bus set off on time then stopped round the corner to wait for some late (local) passengers.
There was a stop after about two hours in order to get something to eat. I’ve said before that noodles are not my perfect breakfast but I found an American-owned café just down the road from the bus stop and had a nice chicken sandwich which came with fries and salad. I was hungry so I ate the lot.
Arriving at Phnom Penh we were met by the usual hoard of tuk-tuk drivers. The one I chose told me he was Ken and he was the world champion tuk-tuk driver! He actually took me to the address I’d asked for – Number 9 Sisters. They had a room with fan and bathroom for $5 so I took it. Then he said he would move me to another room as the rain was coming and the room leaked! He let it out to someone else later though. Anyway, the guesthouse looked like beach huts except they were all joined together and had orchids growing up each side of the walkway. There was a seating area overlooking the lake where you could get meals and drinks – mosquitoes came free during the evening!!! It was a nice setting for all that.
I took a walk into the centre but as it was rush hour, the traffic was horrendous so I didn’t bother trying to cross the road. There were plenty restaurants around the guest house so I chose one that gave a free beer if your order was more than $3.
26-08-09
Up nice and early, had breakfast then set off for the Vietnamese embassy to get my visa. It was quite a long walk and when I got there I was told it was $35 for the visa and to pick it up at 16:30 that day. I wasn’t too impressed by this as some people I’d been talking to the day before had got one of the travel agencies to get theirs and it had only cost them $30 each and they hadn’t had to walk anywhere!
I went to the Russian market while I was waiting for the visa. It wasn’t too impressive. I had decided to get something to eat when the heavens opened and it bounced down for two solid hours. I found an internet café after that so spent more time sheltering from the rain.
I got something to eat when I got back and had another early night as I was tired after all the walking.
27-08-09
I had decided to go to the Killing Fields and museum so when the guesthouse owner said he would take me for $10 it seemed reasonable as the site was quite a long way out. It was very moving, especially the signs above the excavated graves and the stupa with shelves and shelves of skulls and bones. They had a video show as well telling the story of the Killing Fields and saying that they were all over Cambodia and not just at Phnom Penh.
Whilst in the souvenir shop an Australian heard my accent and asked where I came from. He was a salesman, originally from Oldham and he chatted for ages, telling me he played the guitar and his next door neighbour was Hank Marvin of the Shadows. He was also a big fan of George Formby – I certainly bump into some characters!
I got back in the tuk-tuk and suddenly realised I was nearly back at the guesthouse.
Me: “I thought you were taking me to the museum”?
Driver: “No madam, I asked you and you said you didn’t want to go”.
Me: “No you didn’t and I wouldn’t say no. You have cheated me”.
Driver: “Madam you are old and you forget”!
I will not write down my reply but you can imagine there were a few choice words of Anglo-Saxon origin!!
I stamped off in high dudgeon then and went into town. I found a shopping centre that had second-hand books for $2. I keep swapping books after I’ve read them but I was getting a bit low so treated myself to a couple.
After lunch I went to the Royal Palace. Luckily I’d read in the Lonely Planet that you can not go in unless you arms are covered and I had a polo shirt with me. There was a lot of the palace closed off to visitors but there was enough open to tire me out once again. As I was walking through the photographic exhibition, a monkey came strolling in off the street. Unfortunately by the time I’d realised, he had disappeared but when I got to the main street, there was an elephant being walked along by his keeper – you don’t get that in Preston town centre!
I went down to Tonle Sap to see how much the river trips were but as they wanted $10 for one hour I decided against it. I was approached by a man in his thirties and asked if I spoke English. Apparently he’d been on the bus from Siem Reap and had fallen asleep. Someone had helped themselves to his wallet and credit cards but it was too late for him to get money transferred from home and meanwhile could I possibly let him have a couple of dollars? I gave him $5 because he told a good story and like my Mum always says ‘It’s only money’.
I then beat the tuk-tuk driver down to $1 for the ride back home but gave him extra because I’d got it at my price!
I booked my boat ticket to Chau Doc in Vietnam for the next morning.
Saturday 29 August 2009
Jing Hong to Luang Nam Tha
31-07-09
It was a lovely run down to Jing Hong although it took longer than it should as we were detoured off the motorway and sent through the mountains. We overtook dozens of lorries all carrying soil with dozens coming the opposite way empty. I think they are relocating China lorry load by lorry load!
The video on the bus was showing Chinese kung fu movies with the sound track set at very loud. The third DVD had English sub titles (for my benefit?) and it was about a hopping zombie who had lost his mother, was being pursued by two inept men who wanted to kill him and taken in by two children. What a load of rubbish!!!!!
It was going dark as we arrived at Jing Hong and it looked lovely all lit up. It wasn't a bit like a Chinese town, probably because it is very close to the Thai, Lao and Burmese borders.
I checked in to the Banna Hostel and as I was going to my room, a black American guy said 'welcome baby girl'! I took one look at him and told him he needed to visit an optician as it was a long time since I was a baby or even a girl. I asked him if he was going to be there for a while as I needed to ask him a few questions about the town. He and his friend took me to the Mekong Cafe where I was placed in the capable hands of the owner's wife who was a mine of information as she used to be a tour guide.
I was told the taxi back was 5 yuan but the driver told me it was 20! I told him he was robbing me and I would only pay him 5. As I only had a 10 note, I got out of the taxi to try and get it changed. He followed me into the hostel where I got change and I said I had his number and would report him to the police! He went - not a happy bunny but he went.
I decided to go to the Tropical Botanic Gardens at Menglun. I showed the name in Chinese to the inspector who pointed me in the direction of the booth, the girl gave me a ticket and back to the inspector who took me (not quite by the hand) to the correct bus stop and told me to wait as my bus was not in. When it came, he took me to it and spoke to the driver. Off we went and just before the turn off to Menglun my driver stopped and beckoned me to follow him to another bus, where he said something to the to the new driver. We went for a couple of minutes then the bus stopped and I was told this was my stop. Sure enough, there were the gardens. Result!!!
The gardens were fantastic but so big. It was really hot too. There were tourist buses and I should have paid to go on them as they stopped at each section to let you view the exhibits. I walked back to the bus station and boy was I glad I'd been dropped off at the gardens as it was such a long walk.
I set off for the Mekong Cafe and got hopelessly lost. A young boy offered to show me the way and it must have taken us the best part of an hour to find the cafe (I think we went round in circles a couple of times) and he wouldn't even take his taxi fare back home. He was just pleased to speak English with me!
Sunday
I got up early and caught the bus to the Sunday market at Menghun. Unfortunately it absolutely hammered it down and the streets were just running with water. I saw some lovely silk fabrics but didn't buy. The village ladies were all wearing sarong style skirts and they looked really elegant, even with flip-flops and wellies on their feet!
I caught a local bus back to the city. The driver spent more time talking to his mates than keeping his eyes on the road.
I took a walk down to the Mekong River and walked through the park there but it wasn't near the river at all. I just had a sandwich at the Mekong Cafe as I'd eaten some chips from one of the street stalls. I got talking to a man called Jim Goodman. He was probably late fifties with bleached long blond hair, a couple of diamond(?) earings and a sparkly tee shirt. He was writing a book on the ethnic minorities of Yunnan and was very interesting to listen to.
Monday
I got nearly to the No 3 bus station when I realised I should have changed some money as I didn't have enough for the bus to Laos. Of course the banks were all back in town so wandered back in the stifling heat, changed money then got a taxi. The bus fare was only 70 yuan so I needn't have bothered changing anything. Still, I will have some local currency when I go back to China.
As I was going back to the room, I noticed a woman in a shop with a sewing machine. All my tops have gone baggy with hand washing them and hanging them up soaking wet. I took three as the others were being laundered and she ran seams up the sides of them and charged me the equivalent of 60p for all three.
Tuesday 04-08-09
Got up nice and early, hoping the sewing lady would also be up but she wasn't. I ended up having noodles for breakfast as nothing else was opened - not my favourite but I didn't know how long it would be before I would eat again.
The bus station was quiet and I kept asking if my bus was in yet. All of a sudden I was rushed on to a mini bus and off we went. It wasn't very full so it was nice having plenty room for a change. We stopped at Mohan to take on a load of fruit and veg, then it was a run through the villages to the border. There was a Korean young man got on the bus at Mohan. He had been hitch hiking through China and was going on to Thailand, India and all points west, hoping to get as far as South America.
At the border we had to get off the bus and walk through Immigration (should be Emigration as we were going out). It came to my turn and I was there for ages as the official looked at my passport going through it thoroughly and kept slapping it on to the machine underneath the counter. Finally another man came over and told me there was a problem with the machine before I was finally stamped out of the country.
Got back on the bus and drove to the Lao border where forms were filled out in triplicate then the information had to be written out again for another department! That was for the exit visa.
Two very handsome Hong Kong guys got on the Lao side and travelled to Luang Na Tha. They were also going to Thailand but they were catching a bus and not hitching. Luckily the bus stopped in the village and right outside the Manychun guesthouse where I wanted to stay. Mrs M changed 100 yuan into Lao money so I was able to eat. The guesthouse took Visa so I was OK there! When I got up next morning, there was an ATM opposite where I managed to get money out (maximum 50 pounds each day!). The ATMs in China wouldn't let me access my money for some odd reason but I could in a small country like Lao! Strange
It was a lovely run down to Jing Hong although it took longer than it should as we were detoured off the motorway and sent through the mountains. We overtook dozens of lorries all carrying soil with dozens coming the opposite way empty. I think they are relocating China lorry load by lorry load!
The video on the bus was showing Chinese kung fu movies with the sound track set at very loud. The third DVD had English sub titles (for my benefit?) and it was about a hopping zombie who had lost his mother, was being pursued by two inept men who wanted to kill him and taken in by two children. What a load of rubbish!!!!!
It was going dark as we arrived at Jing Hong and it looked lovely all lit up. It wasn't a bit like a Chinese town, probably because it is very close to the Thai, Lao and Burmese borders.
I checked in to the Banna Hostel and as I was going to my room, a black American guy said 'welcome baby girl'! I took one look at him and told him he needed to visit an optician as it was a long time since I was a baby or even a girl. I asked him if he was going to be there for a while as I needed to ask him a few questions about the town. He and his friend took me to the Mekong Cafe where I was placed in the capable hands of the owner's wife who was a mine of information as she used to be a tour guide.
I was told the taxi back was 5 yuan but the driver told me it was 20! I told him he was robbing me and I would only pay him 5. As I only had a 10 note, I got out of the taxi to try and get it changed. He followed me into the hostel where I got change and I said I had his number and would report him to the police! He went - not a happy bunny but he went.
I decided to go to the Tropical Botanic Gardens at Menglun. I showed the name in Chinese to the inspector who pointed me in the direction of the booth, the girl gave me a ticket and back to the inspector who took me (not quite by the hand) to the correct bus stop and told me to wait as my bus was not in. When it came, he took me to it and spoke to the driver. Off we went and just before the turn off to Menglun my driver stopped and beckoned me to follow him to another bus, where he said something to the to the new driver. We went for a couple of minutes then the bus stopped and I was told this was my stop. Sure enough, there were the gardens. Result!!!
The gardens were fantastic but so big. It was really hot too. There were tourist buses and I should have paid to go on them as they stopped at each section to let you view the exhibits. I walked back to the bus station and boy was I glad I'd been dropped off at the gardens as it was such a long walk.
I set off for the Mekong Cafe and got hopelessly lost. A young boy offered to show me the way and it must have taken us the best part of an hour to find the cafe (I think we went round in circles a couple of times) and he wouldn't even take his taxi fare back home. He was just pleased to speak English with me!
Sunday
I got up early and caught the bus to the Sunday market at Menghun. Unfortunately it absolutely hammered it down and the streets were just running with water. I saw some lovely silk fabrics but didn't buy. The village ladies were all wearing sarong style skirts and they looked really elegant, even with flip-flops and wellies on their feet!
I caught a local bus back to the city. The driver spent more time talking to his mates than keeping his eyes on the road.
I took a walk down to the Mekong River and walked through the park there but it wasn't near the river at all. I just had a sandwich at the Mekong Cafe as I'd eaten some chips from one of the street stalls. I got talking to a man called Jim Goodman. He was probably late fifties with bleached long blond hair, a couple of diamond(?) earings and a sparkly tee shirt. He was writing a book on the ethnic minorities of Yunnan and was very interesting to listen to.
Monday
I got nearly to the No 3 bus station when I realised I should have changed some money as I didn't have enough for the bus to Laos. Of course the banks were all back in town so wandered back in the stifling heat, changed money then got a taxi. The bus fare was only 70 yuan so I needn't have bothered changing anything. Still, I will have some local currency when I go back to China.
As I was going back to the room, I noticed a woman in a shop with a sewing machine. All my tops have gone baggy with hand washing them and hanging them up soaking wet. I took three as the others were being laundered and she ran seams up the sides of them and charged me the equivalent of 60p for all three.
Tuesday 04-08-09
Got up nice and early, hoping the sewing lady would also be up but she wasn't. I ended up having noodles for breakfast as nothing else was opened - not my favourite but I didn't know how long it would be before I would eat again.
The bus station was quiet and I kept asking if my bus was in yet. All of a sudden I was rushed on to a mini bus and off we went. It wasn't very full so it was nice having plenty room for a change. We stopped at Mohan to take on a load of fruit and veg, then it was a run through the villages to the border. There was a Korean young man got on the bus at Mohan. He had been hitch hiking through China and was going on to Thailand, India and all points west, hoping to get as far as South America.
At the border we had to get off the bus and walk through Immigration (should be Emigration as we were going out). It came to my turn and I was there for ages as the official looked at my passport going through it thoroughly and kept slapping it on to the machine underneath the counter. Finally another man came over and told me there was a problem with the machine before I was finally stamped out of the country.
Got back on the bus and drove to the Lao border where forms were filled out in triplicate then the information had to be written out again for another department! That was for the exit visa.
Two very handsome Hong Kong guys got on the Lao side and travelled to Luang Na Tha. They were also going to Thailand but they were catching a bus and not hitching. Luckily the bus stopped in the village and right outside the Manychun guesthouse where I wanted to stay. Mrs M changed 100 yuan into Lao money so I was able to eat. The guesthouse took Visa so I was OK there! When I got up next morning, there was an ATM opposite where I managed to get money out (maximum 50 pounds each day!). The ATMs in China wouldn't let me access my money for some odd reason but I could in a small country like Lao! Strange
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