After dawn to dusk continuous sunshine for two weeks and temperatures in the 40s, eclipse day was grey and cloudy. I woke up at 5 pm ready for the epic journey to Yanguan. Everything went to plan, first catching the bus to East Bus Station then the 523 to Yangtan. Time was getting on as I transferred to the 106 and the sky was getting darker as first contact time approached. It started raining as I got to the River Viewing place. I met the Dutch couple again and they said they had been there since 7 am. The clouds kept lifting briefly and each time there was a sigh from the crowd. There was no need to use the eclipse glasses because of the cloud coverage. As totality approached, the birds started flying back to their nests and a huge black cloud covered what tiny bit of sun we could see. It went very dark at totality and as soon as the moon’s shadow started moving away, the sky cleared up enough to track its progress. It was a huge disappointment but maybe I will get to Easter Island next year to see one there? I very much doubt I could afford it as Easter Island is off Chile somewhere in the Pacific.
I wandered away from the crowds and went to watch the tidal bore from the village. It was OK but not as big as I expected. Maybe if I’d stayed it would have looked better form the viewing stands.
23-07-09 Hangzhou to Shanghai
I tried every combination of routes to get out of Hangzhou and the only place I could get out to was Shanghai. That was OK as I managed to book a soft sleeper to Kunming for two days later on Saturday.
I left my bags at the station as I needed to find a hostel. There was a good one mentioned in the Lonely Planet and it was near the Metro line. Unfortunately it was fully booked so the next choice was the Ming Hostel near to the Bund. I managed to find it eventually and they said they only had a bed for one night but there may be a cancellation the next morning.
I asked how to get to the train station and was told the bus stopped just round the corner. It was easier than the Metro. The hostel did food so I ate there that night. The young girl behind the bar was horrified when I ordered a second beer and asked if I always drank that much? I said I was going to have another one after that and I did. That was the most I have had to drink on any one night but I really enjoyed them.
Friday 24th July
Luckily the hostel had a bed for that night and as the weather was pretty miserable but hot and sticky so I went round the air-conditioned shops in Nanjing Lu then over to the Pudong side to look at their shops. I ate again at the hostel but only had two beers this time!!!
25-07-09 Shanghai to Kunming (48 hours by train)
I had booked soft sleeper (first class) to Kunming but they only had an upper berth. I shared the compartment with a elderly couple (probably my age!) and a grandma with her grandson. I scrambled up to my bed with the couple watching in trepidation in case I fell. There was every chance of that! I had been asleep about one hour when the child started howling, moaning and screaming. This went on for about three hours. The grandma kept taking him outside then when he was quiet, she would bring him back in and he would start again. He did eventually go to sleep.
The next morning he was all smiles even though I was threatening him with what would happen that night if there was a repeat performance. All said with a smile on my face too. The grandma tried to talk to me in Chinese but I couldn’t understand her. She got my Mandarin phrase book and pointed to the ‘like’. She said ‘he likes you’ and kept saying it every time she saw me in the corridor. I had to keep dodging from one end of the carriage to the other to avoid them!
About 4 pm a couple of girls asked if they could talk to me and I said it was fine. Before we knew it, there was about twelve all around me, all asking questions. It was quite nice as I’d hardly said anything from the previous day as travelers tend to go hard sleeper unlike softie me.
The grandma and child got off the train at 6 pm, which was a relief as I was not looking forward to another screaming night.
The couple got off early the next morning. The train didn’t move for a while so I went to ask the carriage attendant what was the matter. She spoke a little English and said that her train was late and she didn’t like it. We had a bit of a conversation but she couldn’t explain why we were delayed or when the train would be going. She finally found someone who spoke English who told me we were on a detour as there had been some flooding the night before. With hindsight, I think possibly it would have been quicker to get off the train and catch a bus.
We finally arrived about seven hours late. There was no chance of a taxi as the whole twenty carriages of people were queuing up. I got the bus but as usual went past the stop where I should have got off. I then took a taxi to the hostel only to be told it was full. The girl rang through to the Camellia Hostel who DID have a dorm bed so I got in another taxi and checked in there. The room was pretty big and we had a hot shower.
28th July Monday
The girl on Reception said there was a Walmart nearby so I took a wander down that evening as I needed a polo shirt and as they are an American firm, I thought they might have one big enough for me. They did. I also got a tee shirt but it was a bit neat on me. I noticed they had instant photos and as I had left mine on the bed at home, I needed to get some for my visas. There was a bit of a queue and rather than wait, I thought I would go back the next morning.
29-07-09 Tuesday
I got up bright and early to walk to the store. When I got there, there was a boy sitting behind the counter, watching ‘In the Night Garden’. I said ‘Excuse me’ – no response. A little louder – no response. At that, I banged really hard on the counter and finally got his attention. He strolled down and when I asked about the photos he said no. I asked why he was advertising a service that he couldn’t provide and I would like to talk to the manager. Several people later, the manager finally arrived. I explained I needed the photos and had come back specially to get them from there. Without more ado, he told on of the assistants to take me to the photo shop down the road. The boy’s name, according to the manager was Dragon – a fairly weedy little one at that.
Although the shop advertised opening hours as 08:30 -22:00, there was no sign of anybody at 9 am. Poor Dragon was really itching to get away from me but he had his orders. The shop finally opened about ten minutes later, he explained what I needed and scurried off. The photos were OK and reasonably cheap.
After two and a half days in Kunming, I finally recognized something from five years ago. The Brilliant Plaza had just been built then but it is now surrounded by lots of other buildings.
Wednesday, 19 August 2009
Friday, 14 August 2009
Tun Xi to Hangzhou
15.07.09
I decided to go to the Taoist mountain, Qiyun Shan. I asked the girls at the hostel and again they wrote everything down so off I went to the bus station and on to the correct bus. Who needs to speak the language? This is getting too easy!!! The driver put me off and pointed in the right direction. Again it was very hot so I found the cable car - not too easy - and went up. The views were really good but the mountain looked pretty high and it was very hot so down I came. It was lovely in the village and so nice to get away from the city.
I then caught the bus to Yixian the opposite way to Tun Xi. It was a nice run but the town wasn’t very exciting. Having bought a watch as mine had broken, watched a man making noodles and had a stroll round the town where I was the afternoon matinee (I don’t think they got many tourists there), I caught the bus back. I missed the bus station as I was snoozing but the bus terminated at the Tun Xi railway station so it worked out fine!
16.07.09
I had a lazy day, touring the town via the local buses – I can recommend it as a very cheap way to see the sights.
17.07.09
The hostel booked the bus and hostel for Hangzhou. I was picked up at 08:30 and transferred to a bus going to Hangzhou. This was supposed to be air-conditioned but somewhere along the way it stopped working. I was sitting next to a little Chinese man. He was never still for more than a minute and every now and then his phone would ring. I don’t know if I mentioned the Chinese ringtones? They ARE VERY LOUD and very annoying. They ring for ages while the owner checks on the caller then shouts what sounds like ‘WEIGH’. I have never known any Chinese person speak quietly on the mobile!
I managed to get to the hostel via two buses and a lot of help. What a disappointment after the Koala Hostel! There were three sets of bunks and six lockers crammed into a room not much bigger than my bathroom and that’s small! Still, it was very clean and the shower was hot. Unfortunately for me there wasn’t a bottom bunk. The people at the hostel said that three French girls had the bottom bunks and maybe one would swap? They didn’t come in until 21:30 but one did swap and they were very nice about it.
Hangzhou 18.07.09
After buying breakfast at Carrefour, I set off on a mission to find the way to Yanguan to watch the eclipse. The Lonely Planet and the internet both said it was easy to get there and took about half an hour. The tourist office told me to go to the railway station and get the Shanghai train, getting off at Haining and then catch the 109 bus to Yanguan. The train alone took half an hour and then it was a further fifty minutes on the local bus (it was very cheap though!)
I found the River Viewing Park right outside the bus terminus and went up, only to be told ‘there is no river today’. I said I knew that but I wanted to see the river anyway. It was a lovely walk along the promenade and there was a nice breeze blowing – very refreshing. And yes, the river was there; quite wide and very muddy looking.
I caught the 106 back, only to be told it only went to the bus station and then I had to catch the express bus to Hangzhou which took another hour or so.
Yanguan was perfect to watch the eclipse but how to get there in good time for first contact at 08:23? I spent all Sunday trying to find a quicker way to get there but no joy.
20.07.09
I changed to the European Style Holiday Hotel early Monday morning. I’d booked this before I set off for China. I didn’t realize it was near the railway station until I spotted it from the station esplanade on the Saturday. The only thing European about the hotel was its name!! It was Chinese owned and run the Chinese way. The air-con was blowing warm, there was no fridge (although it said there was a mini ice-box) and no wardrobes, just a coat stand. There was a TV though. The bathroom was nice but all tiled so very slippery when wet. I complained about the air-con but it didn’t get fixed until late the next day. I asked if there was somewhere to dry my laundry. The girl on the desk said yes but the boy on the fifth floor said only in the bathroom. It looked very much like a Chinese laundry with all my garments hanging up in there!!!
I took the train to Ningbo as the Lonely Planet said it was a nice place to visit. It may have been when the LP reviewed it but now it was like all the other Chinese cities – in the process of being rebuilt!! Also very busy with lots of traffic. I had a lovely meal at a Lebanese restaurant. I think they added the bill up wrong (in my favour) but I cannot be sure.
I’d just missed a train back but as I’d boat a first class ticket I could stay in the soft seat lounge. It had very fierce air-con and I nearly froze to death but you do get to board the train before the second class people.
21.07.09
I decided to have one more go at finding the easy way to Yanguan. There was a Dutch couple also doing the same. I looked for the tourist office in Yanguan but it wasn’t where it should have been. The Dutch couple decided to spend the night there so I was told to catch the 106 bus going the other way and then get the local bus to Hangzhou. SUCCESS AT LAST!!! It took longer than the Lonely Planet said but it took me right back to Hangzhou for the princely sum of 30p. The bus also started running from Hangzhou at 05:15 so that was plenty time to get me to Yanguan.
I decided to go to the Taoist mountain, Qiyun Shan. I asked the girls at the hostel and again they wrote everything down so off I went to the bus station and on to the correct bus. Who needs to speak the language? This is getting too easy!!! The driver put me off and pointed in the right direction. Again it was very hot so I found the cable car - not too easy - and went up. The views were really good but the mountain looked pretty high and it was very hot so down I came. It was lovely in the village and so nice to get away from the city.
I then caught the bus to Yixian the opposite way to Tun Xi. It was a nice run but the town wasn’t very exciting. Having bought a watch as mine had broken, watched a man making noodles and had a stroll round the town where I was the afternoon matinee (I don’t think they got many tourists there), I caught the bus back. I missed the bus station as I was snoozing but the bus terminated at the Tun Xi railway station so it worked out fine!
16.07.09
I had a lazy day, touring the town via the local buses – I can recommend it as a very cheap way to see the sights.
17.07.09
The hostel booked the bus and hostel for Hangzhou. I was picked up at 08:30 and transferred to a bus going to Hangzhou. This was supposed to be air-conditioned but somewhere along the way it stopped working. I was sitting next to a little Chinese man. He was never still for more than a minute and every now and then his phone would ring. I don’t know if I mentioned the Chinese ringtones? They ARE VERY LOUD and very annoying. They ring for ages while the owner checks on the caller then shouts what sounds like ‘WEIGH’. I have never known any Chinese person speak quietly on the mobile!
I managed to get to the hostel via two buses and a lot of help. What a disappointment after the Koala Hostel! There were three sets of bunks and six lockers crammed into a room not much bigger than my bathroom and that’s small! Still, it was very clean and the shower was hot. Unfortunately for me there wasn’t a bottom bunk. The people at the hostel said that three French girls had the bottom bunks and maybe one would swap? They didn’t come in until 21:30 but one did swap and they were very nice about it.
Hangzhou 18.07.09
After buying breakfast at Carrefour, I set off on a mission to find the way to Yanguan to watch the eclipse. The Lonely Planet and the internet both said it was easy to get there and took about half an hour. The tourist office told me to go to the railway station and get the Shanghai train, getting off at Haining and then catch the 109 bus to Yanguan. The train alone took half an hour and then it was a further fifty minutes on the local bus (it was very cheap though!)
I found the River Viewing Park right outside the bus terminus and went up, only to be told ‘there is no river today’. I said I knew that but I wanted to see the river anyway. It was a lovely walk along the promenade and there was a nice breeze blowing – very refreshing. And yes, the river was there; quite wide and very muddy looking.
I caught the 106 back, only to be told it only went to the bus station and then I had to catch the express bus to Hangzhou which took another hour or so.
Yanguan was perfect to watch the eclipse but how to get there in good time for first contact at 08:23? I spent all Sunday trying to find a quicker way to get there but no joy.
20.07.09
I changed to the European Style Holiday Hotel early Monday morning. I’d booked this before I set off for China. I didn’t realize it was near the railway station until I spotted it from the station esplanade on the Saturday. The only thing European about the hotel was its name!! It was Chinese owned and run the Chinese way. The air-con was blowing warm, there was no fridge (although it said there was a mini ice-box) and no wardrobes, just a coat stand. There was a TV though. The bathroom was nice but all tiled so very slippery when wet. I complained about the air-con but it didn’t get fixed until late the next day. I asked if there was somewhere to dry my laundry. The girl on the desk said yes but the boy on the fifth floor said only in the bathroom. It looked very much like a Chinese laundry with all my garments hanging up in there!!!
I took the train to Ningbo as the Lonely Planet said it was a nice place to visit. It may have been when the LP reviewed it but now it was like all the other Chinese cities – in the process of being rebuilt!! Also very busy with lots of traffic. I had a lovely meal at a Lebanese restaurant. I think they added the bill up wrong (in my favour) but I cannot be sure.
I’d just missed a train back but as I’d boat a first class ticket I could stay in the soft seat lounge. It had very fierce air-con and I nearly froze to death but you do get to board the train before the second class people.
21.07.09
I decided to have one more go at finding the easy way to Yanguan. There was a Dutch couple also doing the same. I looked for the tourist office in Yanguan but it wasn’t where it should have been. The Dutch couple decided to spend the night there so I was told to catch the 106 bus going the other way and then get the local bus to Hangzhou. SUCCESS AT LAST!!! It took longer than the Lonely Planet said but it took me right back to Hangzhou for the princely sum of 30p. The bus also started running from Hangzhou at 05:15 so that was plenty time to get me to Yanguan.
Luang Prabang to Phonsavanh
Tuesday
I’d booked the trip to the waterfall and also the bus ticket to Phonsavanh. Although I was picked up in a nice minibus with plenty of room, we were all transferred to a Toyota Hi Ace containing 14 seats. As we were all not very small Europeans, it was a bit of a squash! The waterfalls were lovely and an easy climb to the top. However, on the way back, we were taken to ‘an eco-tourism village’. Honestly it was worse than going round a very badly managed zoo. The children were all on stalls calling ‘buy, buy, buy’ with their parents just looking on. It was degrading for them and very embarrassing for us. It should not be allowed.
There was a terrific storm in the evening so I went down the river to watch it. The sheet lightning was all around and then the rain started. Although I had an umbrella, I was soaked through. Luckily the guesthouse was close. After that, I had one last walk through the night market but as it had rained so hard, they were all closing up early.
Wednesday
The mini bus turned up to transport us to the bus station where a nice young man asked if I would like the front seat as there was as much room in the vehicle as head been the day before! Unfortunately there was also another seat but lucky for me a really slim Frenchman got in. It could have been one of the really large French ladies travelling in his group.
We went up and up and up and up into the mountains. After two hours we stopped for lunch. I have no idea how high we were but it must have been pretty high. We travelled along the mountain tops through various villages and after about four hours, there was a request for a toilet stop. There is no way I am going in any bushes as there may be snakes or anything in there.
We finally got to Phonsavanh to be met with a guy with rooms to let - shades of Greece and the Greek ferries. The guesthouse was next to the bus stop - it was clean with bathroom and TV. After checking in I went for something to eat. I spoke to a lady there, I think she was French. She is doing her PhD on the Plain of Jars so it was very interesting talking to her about the sites. She told me that a couple of the travel agencies had a monopoly on the tours and the tuk-tuk drivers were too scared to run tourists themselves! Although she said that I was being ripped off, I DID book a tour! I was only spending two nights there, it was necessary.
Thursday Plain of Jars
There were six of us on the tour so there was plenty room on the bus! It was a very enjoyable day with a tour round the three sites, a visit to a rice whiskey distillery (cottage industry moonshine I think!) and a lunch of noodle soup with chicken. The third site was through rice paddies and up a small hill. It was a beautiful walk. The guide told us the rain was coming so we had better be going back. As soon as I’d got in the hotel, the heavens opened and it bounced down for about two hours.
I went to and Indian restaurant for my evening meal as the Indian guy in Luang Nam Tha said it was his sister. It was. Her samosas were the best I have ever tasted and they just melted in the mouth.
The intellectual lady joined me while I was eating and we talked some more about the jars. I told her that in spite of her misgivings, our guide seemed quite knowledgeable.
I’d booked the trip to the waterfall and also the bus ticket to Phonsavanh. Although I was picked up in a nice minibus with plenty of room, we were all transferred to a Toyota Hi Ace containing 14 seats. As we were all not very small Europeans, it was a bit of a squash! The waterfalls were lovely and an easy climb to the top. However, on the way back, we were taken to ‘an eco-tourism village’. Honestly it was worse than going round a very badly managed zoo. The children were all on stalls calling ‘buy, buy, buy’ with their parents just looking on. It was degrading for them and very embarrassing for us. It should not be allowed.
There was a terrific storm in the evening so I went down the river to watch it. The sheet lightning was all around and then the rain started. Although I had an umbrella, I was soaked through. Luckily the guesthouse was close. After that, I had one last walk through the night market but as it had rained so hard, they were all closing up early.
Wednesday
The mini bus turned up to transport us to the bus station where a nice young man asked if I would like the front seat as there was as much room in the vehicle as head been the day before! Unfortunately there was also another seat but lucky for me a really slim Frenchman got in. It could have been one of the really large French ladies travelling in his group.
We went up and up and up and up into the mountains. After two hours we stopped for lunch. I have no idea how high we were but it must have been pretty high. We travelled along the mountain tops through various villages and after about four hours, there was a request for a toilet stop. There is no way I am going in any bushes as there may be snakes or anything in there.
We finally got to Phonsavanh to be met with a guy with rooms to let - shades of Greece and the Greek ferries. The guesthouse was next to the bus stop - it was clean with bathroom and TV. After checking in I went for something to eat. I spoke to a lady there, I think she was French. She is doing her PhD on the Plain of Jars so it was very interesting talking to her about the sites. She told me that a couple of the travel agencies had a monopoly on the tours and the tuk-tuk drivers were too scared to run tourists themselves! Although she said that I was being ripped off, I DID book a tour! I was only spending two nights there, it was necessary.
Thursday Plain of Jars
There were six of us on the tour so there was plenty room on the bus! It was a very enjoyable day with a tour round the three sites, a visit to a rice whiskey distillery (cottage industry moonshine I think!) and a lunch of noodle soup with chicken. The third site was through rice paddies and up a small hill. It was a beautiful walk. The guide told us the rain was coming so we had better be going back. As soon as I’d got in the hotel, the heavens opened and it bounced down for about two hours.
I went to and Indian restaurant for my evening meal as the Indian guy in Luang Nam Tha said it was his sister. It was. Her samosas were the best I have ever tasted and they just melted in the mouth.
The intellectual lady joined me while I was eating and we talked some more about the jars. I told her that in spite of her misgivings, our guide seemed quite knowledgeable.
Sunday, 9 August 2009
Yuliang Village13.07.09
The Lonely Planet recommended Yuliang village as a nice day out. The girls at the hostel wrote out the instructions for the bus drivers in both English and Chinese and off I went to the long distance bus station with it clutched in my hot sticky hand. First I had to go Shexian and then get a tuk-tuk to the village. The ticket collector pointed to the ticket office where I bought the ticket with no hassle and then showed me to the correct bus – easy!
That’s when the fun started. The price had doubled in the last month although I asked for and got a discount because I was old. The girl then took me down to the river where the boat man asked for 40 yuan – the LP said 15. As I walked away, they called out 20 so I thought that was OK. Getting on to the boat, my purse dropped into the water. Luckily it wasn’t deep and it was rescued. The guy rowing me must have been 95 if he was a day, the boat was rather big and it was very hot. I felt a bit sorry for him but as he had tried to rip me off, the sympathy didn’t last too long. It was nice on the water but got a bit boring after ten minutes. When we got back, he asked me if I wanted to eat and took me to a place in the village = probably his daughter. I ordered pork and vegetables plus a beer (as always). The pork was just chunks of fat with a small amount of meat and the greens had just about been dipped in lukewarm water! The beer was fine though – she couldn’t spoil that. I asked for the bill and she demanded 50 yuan. I’ve never paid that in the city, never mind in a tiny village. I only had a 50 note otherwise I would have given her 25 and left it at that. I settled for 35 and got my change. As you can imagine, I was not impressed.
While I was walking down the main street (I’m not sure if they had more than one), I met a woman priest in white robes and a young man. We said hello and passed by. When I got to the bottom of the street, it was the way into the village off the road and I needn’t have paid.
I was walking down the road when a car stopped. It was the boy and the priest, offering me a lift. I got in and he spoke to someone on his mobile. We stopped near some apartments and he asked if I would like a drink of water. Now I have been had before by people offering drinks and services then demanding payment. I asked what is would cost me and he said nothing and his family would like to meet me. I could have been used for a ritual sacrifice for all I knew but it would not have been as a vestal virgin that’s for sure!!!
Anyway, I was made most welcome and I was told that the priest was their master. Next thing the table had been laid and I was invited to join them. The food was delicious as was the beer. It was only the young man who could speak English but the family came from Shanghai and from what I could gather were importers and exporters. I asked if I could take some photos and was told it was OK so we had groups with them and them with me. I said I would send them on when I could. I did try from Luang Nam Tha but the internet was too slow. I then sent an email saying I would forward them on from England and the young man has replied.
The uncle offered to drive me to the bus station and then paid my fare. What had been a really bad day had turned round into an excellent one.
That’s when the fun started. The price had doubled in the last month although I asked for and got a discount because I was old. The girl then took me down to the river where the boat man asked for 40 yuan – the LP said 15. As I walked away, they called out 20 so I thought that was OK. Getting on to the boat, my purse dropped into the water. Luckily it wasn’t deep and it was rescued. The guy rowing me must have been 95 if he was a day, the boat was rather big and it was very hot. I felt a bit sorry for him but as he had tried to rip me off, the sympathy didn’t last too long. It was nice on the water but got a bit boring after ten minutes. When we got back, he asked me if I wanted to eat and took me to a place in the village = probably his daughter. I ordered pork and vegetables plus a beer (as always). The pork was just chunks of fat with a small amount of meat and the greens had just about been dipped in lukewarm water! The beer was fine though – she couldn’t spoil that. I asked for the bill and she demanded 50 yuan. I’ve never paid that in the city, never mind in a tiny village. I only had a 50 note otherwise I would have given her 25 and left it at that. I settled for 35 and got my change. As you can imagine, I was not impressed.
While I was walking down the main street (I’m not sure if they had more than one), I met a woman priest in white robes and a young man. We said hello and passed by. When I got to the bottom of the street, it was the way into the village off the road and I needn’t have paid.
I was walking down the road when a car stopped. It was the boy and the priest, offering me a lift. I got in and he spoke to someone on his mobile. We stopped near some apartments and he asked if I would like a drink of water. Now I have been had before by people offering drinks and services then demanding payment. I asked what is would cost me and he said nothing and his family would like to meet me. I could have been used for a ritual sacrifice for all I knew but it would not have been as a vestal virgin that’s for sure!!!
Anyway, I was made most welcome and I was told that the priest was their master. Next thing the table had been laid and I was invited to join them. The food was delicious as was the beer. It was only the young man who could speak English but the family came from Shanghai and from what I could gather were importers and exporters. I asked if I could take some photos and was told it was OK so we had groups with them and them with me. I said I would send them on when I could. I did try from Luang Nam Tha but the internet was too slow. I then sent an email saying I would forward them on from England and the young man has replied.
The uncle offered to drive me to the bus station and then paid my fare. What had been a really bad day had turned round into an excellent one.
Luang Nam Tha to Luang Prabang Friday 06-08-09
Luckily for me the rain kept bouncing down so I didn’t hire a motor bike after all – probably saved me from killing myself!! My feet have been blistered and then more blisters on top so doing nothing has given them the chance to heal up. None of the shoes are new so I don’t know why that happened.
I’d had a meal with Gutcher, the Korean guy the night before. He’d said he was hitch-hiking to Thailand the next morning. I met him again while I was having breakfast and he said because of the rain he would be catching the bus with the two boys from Hong Kong.
The bus from Nam Tha to Prabang left from the bus station at the end of town so we had to get on the pick-up truck bus. I was afraid I would show myself up but it was a lot easier than I thought.
There were several Europeans on the bus so at least it helped the time pass quickly. The bus was a real old bone-shaker with really hard seats and the roads are not the smooth tarmac I am used to!!! However, it was a beautiful day and the scenery was spectacular again as we went up and down mountains and through tiny villages with houses on stilts. The air conditioning was open windows and huge fans on the ceiling of the bus. It was really noisy.
A lorry had gone over the edge of the road but luckily for the driver, he only went into a ditch and it was lying on its side. About two hours into the journey, the bus stopped at the top of the hill for a toilet stop. The men all lined up by the side of the road while the women went into the bushes! An hour later we stopped at Oudomxay where there were proper toilets for me (when I say proper, I mean the squat type) and they were absolutely spotless. We stayed there to get some lunch but I passed on that as did all the other westerners. The offerings were barbecued parsons' noses on sticks or roast intestines from God knows what!
Again we stopped on the top of a mountain, this time for everyone to buy cucumbers! There were about six stalls all with just cucumbers and one with some furry animals. They were about the size of a large guinea pig with wicked looking buck teeth and a hairless tail which was quite broad at the base then looked like a rat’s tail but not as long. A man bought one and took it on the bus in a wicker basket. I asked him if he would eat it and he said yes. Speaking to someone on Saturday, he said it was probably a mole.
When we arrived at Luang Prabang, the tuk-tuk drivers just descended on us, asking ridiculous sums to drive us into the city. The Austrian guy decided all ten of us would fit in one. He was right but it was a struggle!!!
I walked round to the guesthouse I had chosen from the Lonely Planet, asked if they had a room and was shown one on the ground floor with fan and hot water shower in the bathroom and it cost 60,000 kip, about five pounds. It was a nice quiet location, one street back from the Mekong River. Perfect. The owner said that there was free tea, coffee and water plus free bananas! What more do you want for your money? The bed was comfortable too.
I walked back through the night market to get something to eat then went back, had another beer and was in bed for 10 pm.
Saturday
Early to bed and all that jazz – my eyes pinged open at 5 am. I got up, showered and went out. The owner was already up and showed me where to go on the map. I walked to the Mekong than along and round the peninsula, found JoMa café and had some proper bread for breakfast. I got talking to a man near the temple who was fixing a racing boat for the festival later this month. Apparently it’s a really big thing but not until the 20th but I cannot stay here until then. I passed the museum where they were selling tickets for the Royal Ballet’s performance that evening so I booked a ticket and then carried on until I got to where the Nam Khan flows into the Mekong. A short stroll by the Mekong brought me back to the guesthouse. The place is quite small.
The daughter at the guesthouse is starting to do breakfasts from next week and had written out a menu. She asked me what I thought about it and as there were a couple of minor mistakes, I asked if they would mind it I corrected them? That was fine, so I also showed her how to format it and it looked even better! I’ve got to stick my nose in!
I was undecided whether to go to the waterfalls that afternoon or go for a massage. It started raining so massage it was! I went to the Lao Red Cross for the massage. All proceeds go to helping train people in the villages to do first aid and also to improve water and toilet facilities. A very worthy cause and an excellent massage too! The girls on the ticket desk were killing themselves laughing at me as I climbed the steps up. I must admit I felt so much better after an hour’s pummeling!
I went back to the guesthouse to get ready for the theatre and was sitting having a beer (like you do) when a really excited Dutch girl came rushing up. She’d been on an afternoon’s weaving course and had made a patterned silk scarf and she had had ‘the best time ever’. She was absolutely full of it. They also do cookery classes and tie-dying, with all the proceeds helping to keep the traditional skills going.
I went to the theatre and luckily the performance was fairly short. I have no doubt that they were very good but I didn’t really understand it. It looked very Siamese style with temple music consisting of about six notes.
I bought a sandwich off a stall on my way back as I couldn’t be bothered to get a proper meal.
Sunday
I got up very early (4:15) to see the monks’ procession where they receive alms from the local people. As it is a religious ceremony, tourists are asked to respect this and keep their distance and not use flash. I was standing a fair way back when this German woman rushed up to the monks and proceeded to flash away. Obviously the rules didn’t apply to her!
As it was still reasonably cool so I walked up 328 steps to see the view from the top of Phu Si, where there is a small temple. Although I took it very slowly, it was still a hot, sweaty climb to the top. It was well worth all the effort as there was still some early morning mist around the mountains although the sun was well up by that time. I had breakfast at one of the cafes nearby – just a continental breakfast but the small baguettes came warm and sliced and Lao coffee, although very dark, is not as strong as it looks and is delicious.
Fed and watered, it was on to the Royal Palace museum and then to Wat Xieng Thong, the largest in the town. It was getting pretty warm by now as the sun was well up so it was slowly back to the guesthouse. I don’t have a watch as I lost mine at the Tropical Botanical Gardens in China so I was really surprised to find out it was only 10:30 am!! I went back to bed for a couple of hours!!!
I have booked a trip the waterfalls tomorrow and then I will leave for Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars on Tuesday before heading south to Vientiane a couple of days later (unless someone tells me of a fantastic place I really must visit).
I’d had a meal with Gutcher, the Korean guy the night before. He’d said he was hitch-hiking to Thailand the next morning. I met him again while I was having breakfast and he said because of the rain he would be catching the bus with the two boys from Hong Kong.
The bus from Nam Tha to Prabang left from the bus station at the end of town so we had to get on the pick-up truck bus. I was afraid I would show myself up but it was a lot easier than I thought.
There were several Europeans on the bus so at least it helped the time pass quickly. The bus was a real old bone-shaker with really hard seats and the roads are not the smooth tarmac I am used to!!! However, it was a beautiful day and the scenery was spectacular again as we went up and down mountains and through tiny villages with houses on stilts. The air conditioning was open windows and huge fans on the ceiling of the bus. It was really noisy.
A lorry had gone over the edge of the road but luckily for the driver, he only went into a ditch and it was lying on its side. About two hours into the journey, the bus stopped at the top of the hill for a toilet stop. The men all lined up by the side of the road while the women went into the bushes! An hour later we stopped at Oudomxay where there were proper toilets for me (when I say proper, I mean the squat type) and they were absolutely spotless. We stayed there to get some lunch but I passed on that as did all the other westerners. The offerings were barbecued parsons' noses on sticks or roast intestines from God knows what!
Again we stopped on the top of a mountain, this time for everyone to buy cucumbers! There were about six stalls all with just cucumbers and one with some furry animals. They were about the size of a large guinea pig with wicked looking buck teeth and a hairless tail which was quite broad at the base then looked like a rat’s tail but not as long. A man bought one and took it on the bus in a wicker basket. I asked him if he would eat it and he said yes. Speaking to someone on Saturday, he said it was probably a mole.
When we arrived at Luang Prabang, the tuk-tuk drivers just descended on us, asking ridiculous sums to drive us into the city. The Austrian guy decided all ten of us would fit in one. He was right but it was a struggle!!!
I walked round to the guesthouse I had chosen from the Lonely Planet, asked if they had a room and was shown one on the ground floor with fan and hot water shower in the bathroom and it cost 60,000 kip, about five pounds. It was a nice quiet location, one street back from the Mekong River. Perfect. The owner said that there was free tea, coffee and water plus free bananas! What more do you want for your money? The bed was comfortable too.
I walked back through the night market to get something to eat then went back, had another beer and was in bed for 10 pm.
Saturday
Early to bed and all that jazz – my eyes pinged open at 5 am. I got up, showered and went out. The owner was already up and showed me where to go on the map. I walked to the Mekong than along and round the peninsula, found JoMa café and had some proper bread for breakfast. I got talking to a man near the temple who was fixing a racing boat for the festival later this month. Apparently it’s a really big thing but not until the 20th but I cannot stay here until then. I passed the museum where they were selling tickets for the Royal Ballet’s performance that evening so I booked a ticket and then carried on until I got to where the Nam Khan flows into the Mekong. A short stroll by the Mekong brought me back to the guesthouse. The place is quite small.
The daughter at the guesthouse is starting to do breakfasts from next week and had written out a menu. She asked me what I thought about it and as there were a couple of minor mistakes, I asked if they would mind it I corrected them? That was fine, so I also showed her how to format it and it looked even better! I’ve got to stick my nose in!
I was undecided whether to go to the waterfalls that afternoon or go for a massage. It started raining so massage it was! I went to the Lao Red Cross for the massage. All proceeds go to helping train people in the villages to do first aid and also to improve water and toilet facilities. A very worthy cause and an excellent massage too! The girls on the ticket desk were killing themselves laughing at me as I climbed the steps up. I must admit I felt so much better after an hour’s pummeling!
I went back to the guesthouse to get ready for the theatre and was sitting having a beer (like you do) when a really excited Dutch girl came rushing up. She’d been on an afternoon’s weaving course and had made a patterned silk scarf and she had had ‘the best time ever’. She was absolutely full of it. They also do cookery classes and tie-dying, with all the proceeds helping to keep the traditional skills going.
I went to the theatre and luckily the performance was fairly short. I have no doubt that they were very good but I didn’t really understand it. It looked very Siamese style with temple music consisting of about six notes.
I bought a sandwich off a stall on my way back as I couldn’t be bothered to get a proper meal.
Sunday
I got up very early (4:15) to see the monks’ procession where they receive alms from the local people. As it is a religious ceremony, tourists are asked to respect this and keep their distance and not use flash. I was standing a fair way back when this German woman rushed up to the monks and proceeded to flash away. Obviously the rules didn’t apply to her!
As it was still reasonably cool so I walked up 328 steps to see the view from the top of Phu Si, where there is a small temple. Although I took it very slowly, it was still a hot, sweaty climb to the top. It was well worth all the effort as there was still some early morning mist around the mountains although the sun was well up by that time. I had breakfast at one of the cafes nearby – just a continental breakfast but the small baguettes came warm and sliced and Lao coffee, although very dark, is not as strong as it looks and is delicious.
Fed and watered, it was on to the Royal Palace museum and then to Wat Xieng Thong, the largest in the town. It was getting pretty warm by now as the sun was well up so it was slowly back to the guesthouse. I don’t have a watch as I lost mine at the Tropical Botanical Gardens in China so I was really surprised to find out it was only 10:30 am!! I went back to bed for a couple of hours!!!
I have booked a trip the waterfalls tomorrow and then I will leave for Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars on Tuesday before heading south to Vientiane a couple of days later (unless someone tells me of a fantastic place I really must visit).
Thursday, 6 August 2009
Updates
Tuesday 07-07-09
As the rain is absolutely bouncing down, I have decided to update the blog from the beginning. Luckily I kept a diary as I couldn't access the blog.
I will start with Manchester to Shanghai.
The flights were pretty good although going via Qatar is quite a long way round. Somehow or another it seems that I ordered low sodium meals so all in all I had four of them during the 19 hours. Their idea of low sodium certainly isn't mine but as it was sort of special, you do get served first!
When we arrived at Shanghai we were told to keep our seats as a medical team were coming to check everyone's temperature due to the swine flu epidemic. When they got on they were all dressed in decontamination suits complete with masks and headgear. I have a couple of photos on DVD but seem unable to access them at the moment. It took ages before they finished but by the time we had cleared the Health Check desk and Immigration, the baggage was on the carousel.
I had decided I would take the maglev train which was a mistake really as I should have chosen the hotel bus. However, I knew best!! As well as the maglev I had to transfer to the metro. By this time it was rush hour so when I tried for a taxi after the metro there was no chance. I asked for directions and was told it wasn't very far to walk. No it wasn't very far if you were not carrying a backpack and pulling along a small case and the temperature wasn't 90C!! I was absolutely wet through to my money and passport in my moneybelt! I had warned the hotel that I may be later than 6 pm so that wasn't a problem. I checked in, had a shower, put my clothes in the hotel laundrey bag and went looking for something to eat. The only place open was KFC so that had to do. Although Yu Gardens, where the hotel was, is a famous tourist spot, everything closes at 9pm. again, I have photos but cannot access them.
Wednesday 08-07-09
I got up bright and early to go and people watch on the Bund. Wrong!!! Shanghai is hosting Expo 2010 next year and everything is being rebuilt, renovated or new buildings going up - and no access to the Bund. My love affair with Shanghai is definitely over, at least until after Expo 2010, when hopefully the city will go back to a place I enjoy.
I decided to move on to Tun Xi as soon as I could find the correct bus station to book a ticket. That was a task and a half too! I was told it was 'just around the corner' - yeah right! Luckily a nice policeman collared a young man and asked him where he was going and as he was passing the bus station he took me to it. I would never have found it on my own. Anyway, mission accomplished I could relax for a couple of days and wander around the city. I'd already done the touristy things the other times I had been so I decided to look at the shops. I enjoy getting on buses (they usually cost about 20p) and just ride to the end, have a wander round and then come back. This is fine if you don't wander too far from the bus route, but taxis are quite cheap to get you back to where you started! I've found some really nice places doing that (as well as some really grotty spots!) Plus the buses are air-conditioned which is a bonus when it is so hot outside.
Next instalment
Shanghai to Tun Xi 10-07-09
Finding the bus station was easy this time - I took a taxi although he dropped me quite a way off due to the one way system.
The bus journey took about six hours and I bet two of those was to get out of Shanghai. It just seemed to go on forever.
When we arrived at Tun Xi dus station I was told that was as far as it went. I said it was supposed to go to the long distance bus station. A woman who spoke reasonable English asked where my hotel was? I said I wanted to go to the Koala Hostel in the old town. She said it was very far away and it would probably be full. However, lucky for me she had a room for 80 yuan and it wasn't far. It was mentioned in the Lonely Planet so it cannot be too bad. She showed me three rooms - all had air-con and a TV. The first had no loo, the second had a squat one and the third, which I took had a proper one, all be it in a miniscule bathroom. It was in need of a coat of paint but it was absolutely spotless, unlike the Classical Hotel in Shanghai which was four and a half times the price. That was in need of a real good bottoming (as you all know, I am so houseproud!). I spilt some water on the carpet and mopped it up with the bath mat. Wrong move as I then had to wash the bath mat out.
The woman took me to a restaurant nearby and I had a good meal for pennies as well as a Snow beer - the local brew.
I got up early the next morning and walked into town. I eventually found the Koala Hostel and booked in from Sunday. All the staff spoke very good English as university students all sign up with the hostels during the summer holiday so they could practice there English. The old town was pretty interesting but I thought I would save the bulk of the exploring until I was actually staying there. The staff told me which bus to catch to the first hotel and that it would cost me 1 yuan.
As it was pretty hot I went back to pack and have a siesta - what else can you do?
Sunday 12.07.09
I walked round the corner and got a taxi to the old town. First thing I had to do at the hostel was book a trip for the following day to the ancient villages of Hon Cun and Xi Di. I'd seen Xi Di on a Chinese TV programme and it looked really interesting but it hadn't been in any of the guide books. It was cheaper and certainly a lot easier to book the trip through the hostel and I even got a discount because I am old!! There are some advantages.
The laundry had been building up so I used the hostel washing machine and hung it on the roof terrace. You would think that because it is so hot, things would dry quickly. They take two days because of the humidity. I finally managed to get on the internet that day too.
The hostel was really nice. There were two sets of bunks (with softish mattresses) in the room and a locker each with a shower room was bigger than my bathroom. I managed to get a bottom bunk as I am know my mountaineering days are over.
Monday
All ready for the trip out. It was in a seven seater car and they let me sit in the front. That was a waste of time as I promptly fell asleep and only woke up when we got to Hon Cun. We had about one and half hours to wander round which was long enough in the heat. I filled in a visitor questionnaire when asked and then had my photo taken with some young boys. This happens quite a lot as they all want there pictures taken with foreigners. Why I don't know.
We had a lunch booked at 12 noon so it was hurry hurry to get there and then it was off to Xi Di. Yixian has a river and you could see all sorts of people going down it on rubber dinghies. It looked really good, especially in the heat but I have no wish to do it.
Xi Di was every bit as attractive and interesting as I expected so it didn't disappoint me. On the way back to Tun Xi we made a stop at a Chinese herbal medicine factory - it sure beat the usual tourist tack places! A good day was had by all.
As the rain is absolutely bouncing down, I have decided to update the blog from the beginning. Luckily I kept a diary as I couldn't access the blog.
I will start with Manchester to Shanghai.
The flights were pretty good although going via Qatar is quite a long way round. Somehow or another it seems that I ordered low sodium meals so all in all I had four of them during the 19 hours. Their idea of low sodium certainly isn't mine but as it was sort of special, you do get served first!
When we arrived at Shanghai we were told to keep our seats as a medical team were coming to check everyone's temperature due to the swine flu epidemic. When they got on they were all dressed in decontamination suits complete with masks and headgear. I have a couple of photos on DVD but seem unable to access them at the moment. It took ages before they finished but by the time we had cleared the Health Check desk and Immigration, the baggage was on the carousel.
I had decided I would take the maglev train which was a mistake really as I should have chosen the hotel bus. However, I knew best!! As well as the maglev I had to transfer to the metro. By this time it was rush hour so when I tried for a taxi after the metro there was no chance. I asked for directions and was told it wasn't very far to walk. No it wasn't very far if you were not carrying a backpack and pulling along a small case and the temperature wasn't 90C!! I was absolutely wet through to my money and passport in my moneybelt! I had warned the hotel that I may be later than 6 pm so that wasn't a problem. I checked in, had a shower, put my clothes in the hotel laundrey bag and went looking for something to eat. The only place open was KFC so that had to do. Although Yu Gardens, where the hotel was, is a famous tourist spot, everything closes at 9pm. again, I have photos but cannot access them.
Wednesday 08-07-09
I got up bright and early to go and people watch on the Bund. Wrong!!! Shanghai is hosting Expo 2010 next year and everything is being rebuilt, renovated or new buildings going up - and no access to the Bund. My love affair with Shanghai is definitely over, at least until after Expo 2010, when hopefully the city will go back to a place I enjoy.
I decided to move on to Tun Xi as soon as I could find the correct bus station to book a ticket. That was a task and a half too! I was told it was 'just around the corner' - yeah right! Luckily a nice policeman collared a young man and asked him where he was going and as he was passing the bus station he took me to it. I would never have found it on my own. Anyway, mission accomplished I could relax for a couple of days and wander around the city. I'd already done the touristy things the other times I had been so I decided to look at the shops. I enjoy getting on buses (they usually cost about 20p) and just ride to the end, have a wander round and then come back. This is fine if you don't wander too far from the bus route, but taxis are quite cheap to get you back to where you started! I've found some really nice places doing that (as well as some really grotty spots!) Plus the buses are air-conditioned which is a bonus when it is so hot outside.
Next instalment
Shanghai to Tun Xi 10-07-09
Finding the bus station was easy this time - I took a taxi although he dropped me quite a way off due to the one way system.
The bus journey took about six hours and I bet two of those was to get out of Shanghai. It just seemed to go on forever.
When we arrived at Tun Xi dus station I was told that was as far as it went. I said it was supposed to go to the long distance bus station. A woman who spoke reasonable English asked where my hotel was? I said I wanted to go to the Koala Hostel in the old town. She said it was very far away and it would probably be full. However, lucky for me she had a room for 80 yuan and it wasn't far. It was mentioned in the Lonely Planet so it cannot be too bad. She showed me three rooms - all had air-con and a TV. The first had no loo, the second had a squat one and the third, which I took had a proper one, all be it in a miniscule bathroom. It was in need of a coat of paint but it was absolutely spotless, unlike the Classical Hotel in Shanghai which was four and a half times the price. That was in need of a real good bottoming (as you all know, I am so houseproud!). I spilt some water on the carpet and mopped it up with the bath mat. Wrong move as I then had to wash the bath mat out.
The woman took me to a restaurant nearby and I had a good meal for pennies as well as a Snow beer - the local brew.
I got up early the next morning and walked into town. I eventually found the Koala Hostel and booked in from Sunday. All the staff spoke very good English as university students all sign up with the hostels during the summer holiday so they could practice there English. The old town was pretty interesting but I thought I would save the bulk of the exploring until I was actually staying there. The staff told me which bus to catch to the first hotel and that it would cost me 1 yuan.
As it was pretty hot I went back to pack and have a siesta - what else can you do?
Sunday 12.07.09
I walked round the corner and got a taxi to the old town. First thing I had to do at the hostel was book a trip for the following day to the ancient villages of Hon Cun and Xi Di. I'd seen Xi Di on a Chinese TV programme and it looked really interesting but it hadn't been in any of the guide books. It was cheaper and certainly a lot easier to book the trip through the hostel and I even got a discount because I am old!! There are some advantages.
The laundry had been building up so I used the hostel washing machine and hung it on the roof terrace. You would think that because it is so hot, things would dry quickly. They take two days because of the humidity. I finally managed to get on the internet that day too.
The hostel was really nice. There were two sets of bunks (with softish mattresses) in the room and a locker each with a shower room was bigger than my bathroom. I managed to get a bottom bunk as I am know my mountaineering days are over.
Monday
All ready for the trip out. It was in a seven seater car and they let me sit in the front. That was a waste of time as I promptly fell asleep and only woke up when we got to Hon Cun. We had about one and half hours to wander round which was long enough in the heat. I filled in a visitor questionnaire when asked and then had my photo taken with some young boys. This happens quite a lot as they all want there pictures taken with foreigners. Why I don't know.
We had a lunch booked at 12 noon so it was hurry hurry to get there and then it was off to Xi Di. Yixian has a river and you could see all sorts of people going down it on rubber dinghies. It looked really good, especially in the heat but I have no wish to do it.
Xi Di was every bit as attractive and interesting as I expected so it didn't disappoint me. On the way back to Tun Xi we made a stop at a Chinese herbal medicine factory - it sure beat the usual tourist tack places! A good day was had by all.
Wednesday, 5 August 2009
Back on line
At last I can access the blog. I am in Luang Nam Tha which is about 70 kms into Laos (or I should write Lao as that is what everone calls it). It is town of 350,000 people but I do't know where they are all hiding! The journey from Jinghong was through some pretty spectacular countryside. Leaving China, it took quite a while to check my passport and I was getting quite worried but it seems there was a problem with the scanning machine and they finally let me go!
This keyboard is worse than the one which kept lapsing into Chinese!!! It keeps missing letters and spaces and I have to go back to fill them in.
The Lao border was bit of a nightmare and they demanded $37 although it was posted as $35.
The bus driver asked if I wanted dropping at the bus station or in town. I said as I had no Lao kip it had better be the town. Luckily for me, he stopped outside Manychan Guest House where I wanted to stay. I paid on my Mastercard for three nights at $8 each night and changed 100 yuan into kip so could buy a meal. I have a huge bed with a comfortable mattress topper on it - sheer bliss after the hard Chinese beds! The cicadas were chirping all night and the cockerels started at 6am!
This morning I spotted an ATM across the road and it actually gave me money on my cash card. I couldn't access my account in China but managed it in the back of beyond!! I was only allowed o withdraw 700,000 kip which is about 50 pounds (no pound sign on the keyboard).
This place is so laid back it is nearly horizontal. I hope the rest of Laos is so easygoing!
I'm going for a wander round the town and will try to find out the price of a ticket to Luang Prabang. There are many rice paddiesaround and an Australian man said I should rent a motorbike a go round them. We will see!
This keyboard is worse than the one which kept lapsing into Chinese!!! It keeps missing letters and spaces and I have to go back to fill them in.
The Lao border was bit of a nightmare and they demanded $37 although it was posted as $35.
The bus driver asked if I wanted dropping at the bus station or in town. I said as I had no Lao kip it had better be the town. Luckily for me, he stopped outside Manychan Guest House where I wanted to stay. I paid on my Mastercard for three nights at $8 each night and changed 100 yuan into kip so could buy a meal. I have a huge bed with a comfortable mattress topper on it - sheer bliss after the hard Chinese beds! The cicadas were chirping all night and the cockerels started at 6am!
This morning I spotted an ATM across the road and it actually gave me money on my cash card. I couldn't access my account in China but managed it in the back of beyond!! I was only allowed o withdraw 700,000 kip which is about 50 pounds (no pound sign on the keyboard).
This place is so laid back it is nearly horizontal. I hope the rest of Laos is so easygoing!
I'm going for a wander round the town and will try to find out the price of a ticket to Luang Prabang. There are many rice paddiesaround and an Australian man said I should rent a motorbike a go round them. We will see!
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