Yuliang Village13.07.09

The Lonely Planet recommended Yuliang village as a nice day out. The girls at the hostel wrote out the instructions for the bus drivers in both English and Chinese and off I went to the long distance bus station with it clutched in my hot sticky hand. First I had to go Shexian and then get a tuk-tuk to the village. The ticket collector pointed to the ticket office where I bought the ticket with no hassle and then showed me to the correct bus – easy!

That’s when the fun started. The price had doubled in the last month although I asked for and got a discount because I was old. The girl then took me down to the river where the boat man asked for 40 yuan – the LP said 15. As I walked away, they called out 20 so I thought that was OK. Getting on to the boat, my purse dropped into the water. Luckily it wasn’t deep and it was rescued. The guy rowing me must have been 95 if he was a day, the boat was rather big and it was very hot. I felt a bit sorry for him but as he had tried to rip me off, the sympathy didn’t last too long. It was nice on the water but got a bit boring after ten minutes. When we got back, he asked me if I wanted to eat and took me to a place in the village = probably his daughter. I ordered pork and vegetables plus a beer (as always). The pork was just chunks of fat with a small amount of meat and the greens had just about been dipped in lukewarm water! The beer was fine though – she couldn’t spoil that. I asked for the bill and she demanded 50 yuan. I’ve never paid that in the city, never mind in a tiny village. I only had a 50 note otherwise I would have given her 25 and left it at that. I settled for 35 and got my change. As you can imagine, I was not impressed.

While I was walking down the main street (I’m not sure if they had more than one), I met a woman priest in white robes and a young man. We said hello and passed by. When I got to the bottom of the street, it was the way into the village off the road and I needn’t have paid.

I was walking down the road when a car stopped. It was the boy and the priest, offering me a lift. I got in and he spoke to someone on his mobile. We stopped near some apartments and he asked if I would like a drink of water. Now I have been had before by people offering drinks and services then demanding payment. I asked what is would cost me and he said nothing and his family would like to meet me. I could have been used for a ritual sacrifice for all I knew but it would not have been as a vestal virgin that’s for sure!!!

Anyway, I was made most welcome and I was told that the priest was their master. Next thing the table had been laid and I was invited to join them. The food was delicious as was the beer. It was only the young man who could speak English but the family came from Shanghai and from what I could gather were importers and exporters. I asked if I could take some photos and was told it was OK so we had groups with them and them with me. I said I would send them on when I could. I did try from Luang Nam Tha but the internet was too slow. I then sent an email saying I would forward them on from England and the young man has replied.

The uncle offered to drive me to the bus station and then paid my fare. What had been a really bad day had turned round into an excellent one.