07-09-09
The rain had stopped by teatime and I decided to go to the waterfront for the evening meal. I had fish grilled in a banana leaf and it was delicious. The rain bounced down while I was eating so my feet were soaked again as I walked back to the guesthouse. The restaurant was advertising two for one during happy hour and that was a good enough excuse to go and have gin and tonic. They obviously don't serve them very often as there was quite a bit of panic over the order. I finally got them to bring me some ice after a whole lot of talking with the waitress.
Hue 08-09-09
The bus arrived early for Hue and I was told to get on it quickly. I hadn't paid for my room so he had to wait. We then drove round the corner where I had to get off! I could have walked.
The bus was the sleeper bus from Nha Trang and I thought it smelt of sweaty feet until I realised that the smell was coming from my still wet sandals. Rather disgusting!
I'd booked my room on the internet the day before so the guy from the hotel picked me up from the bus station, which was very handy. He'd already met three buses as I hadn't told him which one I would be on, only that it was coming from Hoi An. The only room for $12 (including breakfast) was on the fourth floor - eighty steps up. It was a lovely room and she offered to change to a lower floor the next day. It also had a bath which was a lovely change. Unfortunately I could only get a small amount of hot water to run into the bath.
I was informed that there was a big supermarket near by so off I set with my trusty umbrella as it was still raining. I found it easy enough but was told that I had to put my umbrella and book in the lockers - fair enough. Then when I went to go in again, I was told that my handbag had to be sealed in a plastic bag!! That was going a bit too far and I took my things and went off in a huff!
I walked then over the Perfumed River and found another supermarket where the treatment was totally different! I was just waved through with bags and umbrella. The rain had stopped when I came out and it turned into a lovely afternoon.
09-09-09
I got up nice and early, had breakfast (which was included in the room price as long as you didn't order too much!) and went to the Citadel - another world heritage site. That was really enjoyable and took all morning to explore. (I hadn't bothered changing rooms as it was too much trouble). I went back to the hotel and had a rest as it was really hot in the afternoon. I then picked up my laundry, booked my ticket to Hanoi for the next night and also booked for a river trip to see some villages and tombs. I went on the internet to book a room at Citygate Hotel as it was highly recommended by the Lonely Planet. There were several reviews on the hotel - all bad - so I emailed Hanoibackpackers Hostel instead and asked for a dorm bed. As it was much cooler by then I took a walk down my the river, which was really pleasant.
When I got back to the hotel after dinner, I saw someone who'd been everywhere I'd been - Saigon, Da Lat and Hoi An. He was travelling with his friend and they were both Belgian. It was only polite to sit and have a drink with them!
10-09-09
I got picked up for the trip and dropped off at another hotel where I was asked if I would like to transfer to another tour going to the Citadel and then the tombs. It didn't include a sail up the river so I said no, along with a French couple. We were then walked down to the river and put on a boat. It was a lovely sail so I'm glad I did it. We saw a kung fu demonstration, then a couple of temples and pagodas. I was saving myself for the tombs so just sat quietly by the river instead of climbing up lots of stairs! Lunch was included with the fare - noodles, rice, vegetables and tofu. Quite tasty but could have eaten more!
I'm glad I saved myself as there were many stairs up to the two emperors' tombs but they were well worth the effort. The first one was typically Vietnamese but the second one had been designed by French and Chinese architects so it was completely different. They were both excellent. After that we went to see a village where they made conical hats and incense sticks. The latter must be the most boring job on earth as she just rolled some paste round a stick and then started on the next one!
I got back about 4:30, just in time to have a sandwich before catching the night bus at 6 pm. Usually you are allocated beds on the night bus but not on this one. There was only one down bed left and I sat on that one. I was told I couldn't have that but the guy was told there was no way I could climb up to the top beds and I was stopping there. I could have climbed up but the beds are quite narrow and you get thrown about a lot on the top bunks (at least that is what I've been told). So far, that was the least comfortable bus and the driver never took his hand off the horn of all night! Plus I think he deliberately found all the potholes and ramps.
Hanoi 11-09-09
While I was checking in, a guy was told that the Halong Bay was cancelled due to bad weather. I think it is following me! My dorm is on the second floor with six beds in but only mine is occupied at the moment.
My backpack was looking the worse for wear (it is ten years old) and my trainers have a couple of tears in them and Hanoi apparently is the city to replace them. I got instructions off the girl on the desk and went looking for the shops.
I should have worn my trainers with the orthotics in as it was no good trying shoes on without them. I saw a nice backpack, 55 litres, supposedly North Face for ten pounds. It's bigger than my present one but didn't look it. I said I would be back, got my old trainers and went looking for some new ones. I tried on several pairs and settled for a pair of Nikes as they felt the most comfortable. They cost me fifteen pounds after I'd bargained a bit! I think they may be seconds as some of the eyelet holes need punching through. A guy at the hotel looked at the soles and said they looked genuine enough. I don't care if the are or not as long as they are comfortable!
It's about 3 pm and although it has rained a little, it hasn't been as bad as forecast. That may come later. I've got my umbrella and I am now off to do some more exploring.
Friday 11 September 2009
Monday 7 September 2009
Da Lat to Hoi An
05-09-09
Boy am I glad I decided to leave Da Lat! The weather was cold and windy and of course the air-con on the bus worked a treat. Never does when it’s really hot!! We went downhill for about two hours before we stopped for a meal and when I got off the bus it was beautiful and warm again.
The whole journey took about four hours and usually when you arrive someone has a hotel – not this time. I got a taxi to drop me off at the train station – the ticket office was closed until 13:30 and it was just gone noon. I checked the train times but there was nothing for Hoi An and when I looked at the map, the line bypasses Hoi An and goes to Danang higher up. I needed a taxi then to the long distance bus station and some clever dick asked for 100,000 dong. I’d just paid 10,000 so there was no way it was that much. I said to take my bags out of the taxi and got one out before another man said OK, 10,000. He then dropped me back at the original bus station which doesn’t go to Hoi An! I asked for directions and was told it was about 2 kms so off I went. It wasn’t too far but boy was it hot again. When I finally got to the office the girl asked did I want to go that night. I booked the sleeping bus ticket there and then, hoping that it wouldn’t be full and I could have a bed to myself.
I left the bags at the office and took a walk to the beach. I was sorry then I’d booked to leave that night as it was really nice and there were loads of guesthouses I could have stayed at. It was nice to see the sea as that was the first time in all the trip. The beach looked nice and clean and there were several islands out in the bay. Too late, the booking was made.
I got back to the office in good time and to my relief, the sleeping bus was all single beds! A bit on the neat side but I managed to sleep well enough. It rained solidly all night.
06-09-09
We arrived at Hoi An at approximately 6:30, stopping right outside Sea Star guesthouse who happened to hav a room for $10. If I’d only looked over the road a little, there was a hotel with a swimming pool which would probably would not have cost much more. Not to worry, I have a hot shower, fan and TV.
After a shower it was time to go exploring. The rain had stopped by then so first was breakfast and then have a look at the river. Apparently here is the place to get made-to-measure clothing and hand-made shoes but the shop keepers drive you potty asking you all the time to buy from them, What part of ‘no’ don’t they understand?
I bought a ticket for the old town attractions. You have the choice of which ones to go in but you cannot go in all of them unless you pay more money – strange. I booked to go to My Son Monday, another World Heritage site, and a ticket to Hue Tuesday. I walked over the bridge to one of the islands then walked back again. The rain came again so the sightseeing went on hold and into a restaurant for the Hoi An specialities. There was a fixed price menu so it was possible to try the ‘white rose’ – steamed shrimp dumplings as well as ‘cau lau’ – flat noodles with pork, croutons and bean sprouts in savoury broth - and fried wonton. They were OK, I tried them but I won’t be having them again!
07-09-09
I got up nice and early for the trip – 04:15. It was hammering it down then and it hasn’t stopped all day! I had my waterproof jacket on but it dripped onto my shorts and worked its way up. One young man hadn’t even a plastic mac with him so I lent him my umbrella.
My Son was very interesting but would have been more interesting with better weather. It was set in lovely surroundings and was an ancient Cham city which became a religious centre in the late 4th century and lasted until the 13th century. At least there weren’t too many tourists there – infact there were only the four of us off our bus.
I got back about 9:30 and it was still raining. Had a shower then went over the road for breakfast. Still raining – everybody here wears plastic flip-flops – now I know why! My sandals were soaked. I went on the internet – still raining. I needed to go into town to change some money – still raining. The bank was closed for lunch – the rain was absolutely bouncing down with rivers running down the street so I just had to go and have a coffee. I did think about a beer but decided against it.
The rain finally eased off about 13:35 so I took the chance of seeing a couple of the sights in town. As the rain started to get heavier again, I changed money then came back to the hotel to write this up. There is nothing else to do in this weather as there is no pleasure in paddling through torrents of rainwater rushing down the streets!
Boy am I glad I decided to leave Da Lat! The weather was cold and windy and of course the air-con on the bus worked a treat. Never does when it’s really hot!! We went downhill for about two hours before we stopped for a meal and when I got off the bus it was beautiful and warm again.
The whole journey took about four hours and usually when you arrive someone has a hotel – not this time. I got a taxi to drop me off at the train station – the ticket office was closed until 13:30 and it was just gone noon. I checked the train times but there was nothing for Hoi An and when I looked at the map, the line bypasses Hoi An and goes to Danang higher up. I needed a taxi then to the long distance bus station and some clever dick asked for 100,000 dong. I’d just paid 10,000 so there was no way it was that much. I said to take my bags out of the taxi and got one out before another man said OK, 10,000. He then dropped me back at the original bus station which doesn’t go to Hoi An! I asked for directions and was told it was about 2 kms so off I went. It wasn’t too far but boy was it hot again. When I finally got to the office the girl asked did I want to go that night. I booked the sleeping bus ticket there and then, hoping that it wouldn’t be full and I could have a bed to myself.
I left the bags at the office and took a walk to the beach. I was sorry then I’d booked to leave that night as it was really nice and there were loads of guesthouses I could have stayed at. It was nice to see the sea as that was the first time in all the trip. The beach looked nice and clean and there were several islands out in the bay. Too late, the booking was made.
I got back to the office in good time and to my relief, the sleeping bus was all single beds! A bit on the neat side but I managed to sleep well enough. It rained solidly all night.
06-09-09
We arrived at Hoi An at approximately 6:30, stopping right outside Sea Star guesthouse who happened to hav a room for $10. If I’d only looked over the road a little, there was a hotel with a swimming pool which would probably would not have cost much more. Not to worry, I have a hot shower, fan and TV.
After a shower it was time to go exploring. The rain had stopped by then so first was breakfast and then have a look at the river. Apparently here is the place to get made-to-measure clothing and hand-made shoes but the shop keepers drive you potty asking you all the time to buy from them, What part of ‘no’ don’t they understand?
I bought a ticket for the old town attractions. You have the choice of which ones to go in but you cannot go in all of them unless you pay more money – strange. I booked to go to My Son Monday, another World Heritage site, and a ticket to Hue Tuesday. I walked over the bridge to one of the islands then walked back again. The rain came again so the sightseeing went on hold and into a restaurant for the Hoi An specialities. There was a fixed price menu so it was possible to try the ‘white rose’ – steamed shrimp dumplings as well as ‘cau lau’ – flat noodles with pork, croutons and bean sprouts in savoury broth - and fried wonton. They were OK, I tried them but I won’t be having them again!
07-09-09
I got up nice and early for the trip – 04:15. It was hammering it down then and it hasn’t stopped all day! I had my waterproof jacket on but it dripped onto my shorts and worked its way up. One young man hadn’t even a plastic mac with him so I lent him my umbrella.
My Son was very interesting but would have been more interesting with better weather. It was set in lovely surroundings and was an ancient Cham city which became a religious centre in the late 4th century and lasted until the 13th century. At least there weren’t too many tourists there – infact there were only the four of us off our bus.
I got back about 9:30 and it was still raining. Had a shower then went over the road for breakfast. Still raining – everybody here wears plastic flip-flops – now I know why! My sandals were soaked. I went on the internet – still raining. I needed to go into town to change some money – still raining. The bank was closed for lunch – the rain was absolutely bouncing down with rivers running down the street so I just had to go and have a coffee. I did think about a beer but decided against it.
The rain finally eased off about 13:35 so I took the chance of seeing a couple of the sights in town. As the rain started to get heavier again, I changed money then came back to the hotel to write this up. There is nothing else to do in this weather as there is no pleasure in paddling through torrents of rainwater rushing down the streets!
I will leave Tuesday morning at 07:30 and hope the weather is better in Hue. I'm not holding my breath though as the weather forecast for the whole of South East Asia is for more rain, due to a tropical storm off the coast of the Phillipines.
Saigon to Da Lat
As I was checking out of the hotel Madame Cuc stopped to have a word. If ever a woman was a Madame, it was her! She asked if I’d enjoyed staying at her hotel, which I can honestly say I did and she told the girls to give me a bottle of water and some bananas for the journey. How kind of her!
The journey was really good climbing to the Central Highlands and it was nice to see mountains again. Da Lat was a very pretty city with lots of flowers and gardens. When you book a ticket with the bus company, you get transport to your hotel thrown in. As I didn’t have a booking, they suggested the Pink Hotel which was $10 a night. If I didn’t like it they would take me somewhere else. The hotel was fine and I got a huge room with a balcony (only small but a balcony) with TV and hot shower. There was no fan or air-con which I found out later was surplus to requirements as it was really cold at night (probably down to about 20C!). Luckily my fleece was at the bottom of my backpack along with my waterproof jacket – both needed in Da Lat). I walked down into the town and had a quick look around but it was getting dark so I went back to the hotel and had an early night – just for a change!
04-09-09
Breakfast was included – choice of a cheese sandwich and one drink off the menu. I got directions off the boy behind the desk and managed to find the market and the shopping streets. I called in at the tourist information and got a map. The Lonely Planet said there was a railway so I set off to find it. I managed, much to my surprise and saw an engine revving up ready to go. I hurried down (well strolled quickly) and was told to climb on. The passenger carriage door was closed and I was ushered into the engine bit – first class treatment – they obviously realised I’m a classy person! When we got to Trai Mat village, the engine driver told me to follow the tour guide and his party to go and see the Linh Phuoc pagoda and be back in 30 minutes.
Apparently on some days in February and into March there was a halo of light behind the pagoda. It must have been some spectacle and I wish I had bought some postcards of it but I was being rushed back to the train. Going back was even better as the engine was going backwards and I had a clear view out of the open door. Because Da Lat is 1500m above sea level and it gets plenty of rain, the climate is very suitable for growing all kinds of fruit and vegetables and the export flowers to Japan and Hong Kong. There were greenhouses everywhere and more land being terraced to put more up.
I walked back into town and had a meal at the V Café – fish and chips but not as we know it! The fish was cut into small pieces and then battered. It was very tasty but not quite what I wanted. I took what I thought was the right road back to the hotel but instead of turning left I went right and walked for miles out of my way. I finally got on the right one and got back just before the rain started.
I needed to eat so the boy got me a taxi into town. The first restaurant I went in to was thick with smoke so out I cane. I’d just finished my meal when I spotted the Belgian couple who had been on the Mekong trip and staying at the same hotel in Saigon. They had been to Mui Ne where it had cost them $125 a night but they said it had been worth every cent as they had their own villa and swimming pool. Now it was back to reality with a $10 room!
The weather forecast was pretty dire so I decided to go to Nha Trang the next day. The boy booked my ticket and said the transport would pick me up at 7:30 am.
The journey was really good climbing to the Central Highlands and it was nice to see mountains again. Da Lat was a very pretty city with lots of flowers and gardens. When you book a ticket with the bus company, you get transport to your hotel thrown in. As I didn’t have a booking, they suggested the Pink Hotel which was $10 a night. If I didn’t like it they would take me somewhere else. The hotel was fine and I got a huge room with a balcony (only small but a balcony) with TV and hot shower. There was no fan or air-con which I found out later was surplus to requirements as it was really cold at night (probably down to about 20C!). Luckily my fleece was at the bottom of my backpack along with my waterproof jacket – both needed in Da Lat). I walked down into the town and had a quick look around but it was getting dark so I went back to the hotel and had an early night – just for a change!
04-09-09
Breakfast was included – choice of a cheese sandwich and one drink off the menu. I got directions off the boy behind the desk and managed to find the market and the shopping streets. I called in at the tourist information and got a map. The Lonely Planet said there was a railway so I set off to find it. I managed, much to my surprise and saw an engine revving up ready to go. I hurried down (well strolled quickly) and was told to climb on. The passenger carriage door was closed and I was ushered into the engine bit – first class treatment – they obviously realised I’m a classy person! When we got to Trai Mat village, the engine driver told me to follow the tour guide and his party to go and see the Linh Phuoc pagoda and be back in 30 minutes.
Apparently on some days in February and into March there was a halo of light behind the pagoda. It must have been some spectacle and I wish I had bought some postcards of it but I was being rushed back to the train. Going back was even better as the engine was going backwards and I had a clear view out of the open door. Because Da Lat is 1500m above sea level and it gets plenty of rain, the climate is very suitable for growing all kinds of fruit and vegetables and the export flowers to Japan and Hong Kong. There were greenhouses everywhere and more land being terraced to put more up.
I walked back into town and had a meal at the V Café – fish and chips but not as we know it! The fish was cut into small pieces and then battered. It was very tasty but not quite what I wanted. I took what I thought was the right road back to the hotel but instead of turning left I went right and walked for miles out of my way. I finally got on the right one and got back just before the rain started.
I needed to eat so the boy got me a taxi into town. The first restaurant I went in to was thick with smoke so out I cane. I’d just finished my meal when I spotted the Belgian couple who had been on the Mekong trip and staying at the same hotel in Saigon. They had been to Mui Ne where it had cost them $125 a night but they said it had been worth every cent as they had their own villa and swimming pool. Now it was back to reality with a $10 room!
The weather forecast was pretty dire so I decided to go to Nha Trang the next day. The boy booked my ticket and said the transport would pick me up at 7:30 am.
Thursday 3 September 2009
Saigon 31-08-09
I got up early and walked to the War Remnants Museum, There were tanks, planes and helicopters in the grounds plus a replica of the ‘tiger cages’ they used to keep prisoners in. They were wire mesh boxes with barbed wire around them and no room to stand up or lie down. Inside were the details of the US war with Vietnam. Quite harrowing.
I walked around town and found the Saigon River but the traffic was too horrendous for me to attempt to cross the road for a closer look! I get taken by the hand by many people who are willing to help the poor old dear cross over!!!
01-09-09
I booked a Mekong Delta trip as it wasn’t too expensive. It took us nearly three hours to get to the river because of all the traffic leaving the city. We got a decent sized boat over to one of the islands where we were shown a beehive and how they got the honey out – not a mask or protective clothing in sight. We were all offered honey tea and hoenyed fruits then told the price of the products. I turned round to see the guide taking out a boa constrictor out of a glass cage and draping round a little Australian boy’s neck. He looked petrified but once we all started taking photos he calmed down. There was an even bigger on brought out. I touched it but no way was anybody draping that round me.
We walked through the jungle (well it was a tree-lined path) to a tropical fruit farm where again there were a lot of free samples. Next was a ride on a very small boat. I told them there was no way I was getting in one of them, even if it meant I had to stay on the island forever. It was quite a long drop down to the boat and there was about two inches of boat above the river and that was before I got in – so no it was not going to happen. The guide tooke me back to the village where he put me on the back of a motorbike. I think the small boat may have been a slightly better option! I survived and joined up with the rest of the tour. After lunch it was free time to walk or cycle to the village. I walked as far as the school, where the pupils were just starting the afternoon session but the traffic was as bad as in Saigon. It was unbelievable.
Most of us ont the tour opted to go back by speedboat. That was fantastic as we first went down the Mekong and then up another couple of connecting rivers until we got to the Saigon River. We were hoping to see the sunset but the rain came hammering down. It’s done that every teatime in Saigon. I got soaked going for the bus and then from the bus to the hotel. A shower and a change of clothes was all it took to feel better. The rain had stopped by then so I walked round to and Indian café where he advertised four vegetarian courses and a soft drink for 25,000 dong (29,000 to the pound). The beer was nearly as dear as the meal and it was really good. I didn’t fancy noodles and spring rolls again.
02-09-09
I went to the market to try to buy a couple of blouses at a price I was willing to pay as I hate haggling. Away from the tourist bit are the regular stalls with ‘fixed price’ notices. The same tops that the tourist bit wanted $17.5 for I got for $5 which I thought was a fair price. They will probably fall to bits after a couple of washings but what the hell, they were cheap enough. I decided to go to Dalat in the Central Highlands for a couple of days so booked a ticket through the hotel. It works out a bit dearer but transport to the bus station is provided then.
I had laundry which needed doing but it was Liberation Day and a holiday for most people so they all said the laundry would be ready the next day, which was no good. I remembered I’d seen one near the market that promised same day so that’s where I took it. I was supposed to pick it up at 17:30 but got held up. When I got there she was closed! Luckily there was a sign saying it could be picked up at the book store a few doors down. I’d had most of my clothes laundered so I would have been in a right pickle without them.
I walked around town and found the Saigon River but the traffic was too horrendous for me to attempt to cross the road for a closer look! I get taken by the hand by many people who are willing to help the poor old dear cross over!!!
01-09-09
I booked a Mekong Delta trip as it wasn’t too expensive. It took us nearly three hours to get to the river because of all the traffic leaving the city. We got a decent sized boat over to one of the islands where we were shown a beehive and how they got the honey out – not a mask or protective clothing in sight. We were all offered honey tea and hoenyed fruits then told the price of the products. I turned round to see the guide taking out a boa constrictor out of a glass cage and draping round a little Australian boy’s neck. He looked petrified but once we all started taking photos he calmed down. There was an even bigger on brought out. I touched it but no way was anybody draping that round me.
We walked through the jungle (well it was a tree-lined path) to a tropical fruit farm where again there were a lot of free samples. Next was a ride on a very small boat. I told them there was no way I was getting in one of them, even if it meant I had to stay on the island forever. It was quite a long drop down to the boat and there was about two inches of boat above the river and that was before I got in – so no it was not going to happen. The guide tooke me back to the village where he put me on the back of a motorbike. I think the small boat may have been a slightly better option! I survived and joined up with the rest of the tour. After lunch it was free time to walk or cycle to the village. I walked as far as the school, where the pupils were just starting the afternoon session but the traffic was as bad as in Saigon. It was unbelievable.
Most of us ont the tour opted to go back by speedboat. That was fantastic as we first went down the Mekong and then up another couple of connecting rivers until we got to the Saigon River. We were hoping to see the sunset but the rain came hammering down. It’s done that every teatime in Saigon. I got soaked going for the bus and then from the bus to the hotel. A shower and a change of clothes was all it took to feel better. The rain had stopped by then so I walked round to and Indian café where he advertised four vegetarian courses and a soft drink for 25,000 dong (29,000 to the pound). The beer was nearly as dear as the meal and it was really good. I didn’t fancy noodles and spring rolls again.
02-09-09
I went to the market to try to buy a couple of blouses at a price I was willing to pay as I hate haggling. Away from the tourist bit are the regular stalls with ‘fixed price’ notices. The same tops that the tourist bit wanted $17.5 for I got for $5 which I thought was a fair price. They will probably fall to bits after a couple of washings but what the hell, they were cheap enough. I decided to go to Dalat in the Central Highlands for a couple of days so booked a ticket through the hotel. It works out a bit dearer but transport to the bus station is provided then.
I had laundry which needed doing but it was Liberation Day and a holiday for most people so they all said the laundry would be ready the next day, which was no good. I remembered I’d seen one near the market that promised same day so that’s where I took it. I was supposed to pick it up at 17:30 but got held up. When I got there she was closed! Luckily there was a sign saying it could be picked up at the book store a few doors down. I’d had most of my clothes laundered so I would have been in a right pickle without them.
Wednesday 2 September 2009
Phnom Penh to Chau Doc
28-08-09
Again the transport was late picking me and we got on a mini-bus for the two-hour drive to the boat on the Mekong River. Now I was expecting something like a smaller Greek ferry with a sun deck to lounge on. Wrong again – it was quite a small boat but looked solid enough and off we went down the Mekong at a great rate of knots for two hours. We had to fill in our details four times on separate sheets of paper and then a health check form and an entry/exit form. We got off at the Cambodian border where we were checked out of the country, got back on the boat for a short ride to the Vietnamese border where we were told to take off all our luggage and go through passport control. We were met by a very smiley lady who told us what to do, took all our passports and forms then told us to get something to eat while everything was checked. Easy!!
The next boat was even smaller with loose dining chairs for seats. We meandered down what looked like a canal, passing flooded rice paddies as we went. The lady told us that they were flooded from the July storms but luckily they had got all the rice before it happened. It was a lovely journey, passing small villages along the way. The lady just happened to have a guesthouse (don’t they all?) and would we like to stay there? It was only afterwards that I realised it was the one recommended by the Lonely Planet and I was going to stay there anyway.
Chau Doc has a terrific market for such a small town so I had a wander round but didn’t buy anything. It was time to eat, plenty of restaurants to choose from but it was easier to eat at the guesthouse.
29-08-09
I got up early as usual, had breakfast then went exploring. Chau Doc was a lot bigger than I first thought. I treated myself to a coffee at the best hotel in town (shouldn’t have as it cost me $3:60!), had a look round the Catholic church - all the saints had Asian faces – even Mary – then came back and booked a ticket to Ho Chi Minh City (I prefer Saigon really) for the next day. I was going to book a two day trip around the Mekong with a home stay overnight and then on to Saigon but the brochure showed little boats where the sides were barely out of the water so I chickened out!
Chau Doc to Saigon 30-08-09
I now know not to expect too much in the way of transport so I wasn’t too disappointed with a small cramped mini-bus! We had stopped in a village somewhere when the sliding door was slammed open and a crowd of people selling food poked their heads and wares in. When I looked up, I could see a river and we were waiting for the ferry to take us across. That was quite interesting. I thought there may have been more ferries but that was the only one. I don’t think our mini-bus had any springs as I was bounced around like nobody’s business. I’m sure the driver deliberately found all the potholes and ramps too!
I got a taxi from the bus station to Hotel 127 run by Mrs Cuc (pronounced ‘Cook’). She has several guesthouses in Saigon. The Lonely Planet says you get a warm welcome with the offer of tea, coffee or juice – and you do. I was taken to rooms over the road and shown a nice one on the 2nd floor at $20. I said I would prefer something cheaper, went up one floor to an even nicer room for $15. That overlooked the main street and had TV, fridge and HOT shower. Breakfast and evening meal were also in the price. I was quite excited about the free dinners - it turned out to be spring rolls and noodles every night – but as it bounced down the first night it was nice not to go looking for a place to eat!
Again the transport was late picking me and we got on a mini-bus for the two-hour drive to the boat on the Mekong River. Now I was expecting something like a smaller Greek ferry with a sun deck to lounge on. Wrong again – it was quite a small boat but looked solid enough and off we went down the Mekong at a great rate of knots for two hours. We had to fill in our details four times on separate sheets of paper and then a health check form and an entry/exit form. We got off at the Cambodian border where we were checked out of the country, got back on the boat for a short ride to the Vietnamese border where we were told to take off all our luggage and go through passport control. We were met by a very smiley lady who told us what to do, took all our passports and forms then told us to get something to eat while everything was checked. Easy!!
The next boat was even smaller with loose dining chairs for seats. We meandered down what looked like a canal, passing flooded rice paddies as we went. The lady told us that they were flooded from the July storms but luckily they had got all the rice before it happened. It was a lovely journey, passing small villages along the way. The lady just happened to have a guesthouse (don’t they all?) and would we like to stay there? It was only afterwards that I realised it was the one recommended by the Lonely Planet and I was going to stay there anyway.
Chau Doc has a terrific market for such a small town so I had a wander round but didn’t buy anything. It was time to eat, plenty of restaurants to choose from but it was easier to eat at the guesthouse.
29-08-09
I got up early as usual, had breakfast then went exploring. Chau Doc was a lot bigger than I first thought. I treated myself to a coffee at the best hotel in town (shouldn’t have as it cost me $3:60!), had a look round the Catholic church - all the saints had Asian faces – even Mary – then came back and booked a ticket to Ho Chi Minh City (I prefer Saigon really) for the next day. I was going to book a two day trip around the Mekong with a home stay overnight and then on to Saigon but the brochure showed little boats where the sides were barely out of the water so I chickened out!
Chau Doc to Saigon 30-08-09
I now know not to expect too much in the way of transport so I wasn’t too disappointed with a small cramped mini-bus! We had stopped in a village somewhere when the sliding door was slammed open and a crowd of people selling food poked their heads and wares in. When I looked up, I could see a river and we were waiting for the ferry to take us across. That was quite interesting. I thought there may have been more ferries but that was the only one. I don’t think our mini-bus had any springs as I was bounced around like nobody’s business. I’m sure the driver deliberately found all the potholes and ramps too!
I got a taxi from the bus station to Hotel 127 run by Mrs Cuc (pronounced ‘Cook’). She has several guesthouses in Saigon. The Lonely Planet says you get a warm welcome with the offer of tea, coffee or juice – and you do. I was taken to rooms over the road and shown a nice one on the 2nd floor at $20. I said I would prefer something cheaper, went up one floor to an even nicer room for $15. That overlooked the main street and had TV, fridge and HOT shower. Breakfast and evening meal were also in the price. I was quite excited about the free dinners - it turned out to be spring rolls and noodles every night – but as it bounced down the first night it was nice not to go looking for a place to eat!
Siem Reap to Phnom Penh
25-08-09
The mini-bus was late picking me up – so what’s new? We picked up several more along the way until we were full and then we picked up three more! The big bus set off on time then stopped round the corner to wait for some late (local) passengers.
There was a stop after about two hours in order to get something to eat. I’ve said before that noodles are not my perfect breakfast but I found an American-owned café just down the road from the bus stop and had a nice chicken sandwich which came with fries and salad. I was hungry so I ate the lot.
Arriving at Phnom Penh we were met by the usual hoard of tuk-tuk drivers. The one I chose told me he was Ken and he was the world champion tuk-tuk driver! He actually took me to the address I’d asked for – Number 9 Sisters. They had a room with fan and bathroom for $5 so I took it. Then he said he would move me to another room as the rain was coming and the room leaked! He let it out to someone else later though. Anyway, the guesthouse looked like beach huts except they were all joined together and had orchids growing up each side of the walkway. There was a seating area overlooking the lake where you could get meals and drinks – mosquitoes came free during the evening!!! It was a nice setting for all that.
I took a walk into the centre but as it was rush hour, the traffic was horrendous so I didn’t bother trying to cross the road. There were plenty restaurants around the guest house so I chose one that gave a free beer if your order was more than $3.
26-08-09
Up nice and early, had breakfast then set off for the Vietnamese embassy to get my visa. It was quite a long walk and when I got there I was told it was $35 for the visa and to pick it up at 16:30 that day. I wasn’t too impressed by this as some people I’d been talking to the day before had got one of the travel agencies to get theirs and it had only cost them $30 each and they hadn’t had to walk anywhere!
I went to the Russian market while I was waiting for the visa. It wasn’t too impressive. I had decided to get something to eat when the heavens opened and it bounced down for two solid hours. I found an internet café after that so spent more time sheltering from the rain.
I got something to eat when I got back and had another early night as I was tired after all the walking.
27-08-09
I had decided to go to the Killing Fields and museum so when the guesthouse owner said he would take me for $10 it seemed reasonable as the site was quite a long way out. It was very moving, especially the signs above the excavated graves and the stupa with shelves and shelves of skulls and bones. They had a video show as well telling the story of the Killing Fields and saying that they were all over Cambodia and not just at Phnom Penh.
Whilst in the souvenir shop an Australian heard my accent and asked where I came from. He was a salesman, originally from Oldham and he chatted for ages, telling me he played the guitar and his next door neighbour was Hank Marvin of the Shadows. He was also a big fan of George Formby – I certainly bump into some characters!
I got back in the tuk-tuk and suddenly realised I was nearly back at the guesthouse.
Me: “I thought you were taking me to the museum”?
Driver: “No madam, I asked you and you said you didn’t want to go”.
Me: “No you didn’t and I wouldn’t say no. You have cheated me”.
Driver: “Madam you are old and you forget”!
I will not write down my reply but you can imagine there were a few choice words of Anglo-Saxon origin!!
I stamped off in high dudgeon then and went into town. I found a shopping centre that had second-hand books for $2. I keep swapping books after I’ve read them but I was getting a bit low so treated myself to a couple.
After lunch I went to the Royal Palace. Luckily I’d read in the Lonely Planet that you can not go in unless you arms are covered and I had a polo shirt with me. There was a lot of the palace closed off to visitors but there was enough open to tire me out once again. As I was walking through the photographic exhibition, a monkey came strolling in off the street. Unfortunately by the time I’d realised, he had disappeared but when I got to the main street, there was an elephant being walked along by his keeper – you don’t get that in Preston town centre!
I went down to Tonle Sap to see how much the river trips were but as they wanted $10 for one hour I decided against it. I was approached by a man in his thirties and asked if I spoke English. Apparently he’d been on the bus from Siem Reap and had fallen asleep. Someone had helped themselves to his wallet and credit cards but it was too late for him to get money transferred from home and meanwhile could I possibly let him have a couple of dollars? I gave him $5 because he told a good story and like my Mum always says ‘It’s only money’.
I then beat the tuk-tuk driver down to $1 for the ride back home but gave him extra because I’d got it at my price!
I booked my boat ticket to Chau Doc in Vietnam for the next morning.
The mini-bus was late picking me up – so what’s new? We picked up several more along the way until we were full and then we picked up three more! The big bus set off on time then stopped round the corner to wait for some late (local) passengers.
There was a stop after about two hours in order to get something to eat. I’ve said before that noodles are not my perfect breakfast but I found an American-owned café just down the road from the bus stop and had a nice chicken sandwich which came with fries and salad. I was hungry so I ate the lot.
Arriving at Phnom Penh we were met by the usual hoard of tuk-tuk drivers. The one I chose told me he was Ken and he was the world champion tuk-tuk driver! He actually took me to the address I’d asked for – Number 9 Sisters. They had a room with fan and bathroom for $5 so I took it. Then he said he would move me to another room as the rain was coming and the room leaked! He let it out to someone else later though. Anyway, the guesthouse looked like beach huts except they were all joined together and had orchids growing up each side of the walkway. There was a seating area overlooking the lake where you could get meals and drinks – mosquitoes came free during the evening!!! It was a nice setting for all that.
I took a walk into the centre but as it was rush hour, the traffic was horrendous so I didn’t bother trying to cross the road. There were plenty restaurants around the guest house so I chose one that gave a free beer if your order was more than $3.
26-08-09
Up nice and early, had breakfast then set off for the Vietnamese embassy to get my visa. It was quite a long walk and when I got there I was told it was $35 for the visa and to pick it up at 16:30 that day. I wasn’t too impressed by this as some people I’d been talking to the day before had got one of the travel agencies to get theirs and it had only cost them $30 each and they hadn’t had to walk anywhere!
I went to the Russian market while I was waiting for the visa. It wasn’t too impressive. I had decided to get something to eat when the heavens opened and it bounced down for two solid hours. I found an internet café after that so spent more time sheltering from the rain.
I got something to eat when I got back and had another early night as I was tired after all the walking.
27-08-09
I had decided to go to the Killing Fields and museum so when the guesthouse owner said he would take me for $10 it seemed reasonable as the site was quite a long way out. It was very moving, especially the signs above the excavated graves and the stupa with shelves and shelves of skulls and bones. They had a video show as well telling the story of the Killing Fields and saying that they were all over Cambodia and not just at Phnom Penh.
Whilst in the souvenir shop an Australian heard my accent and asked where I came from. He was a salesman, originally from Oldham and he chatted for ages, telling me he played the guitar and his next door neighbour was Hank Marvin of the Shadows. He was also a big fan of George Formby – I certainly bump into some characters!
I got back in the tuk-tuk and suddenly realised I was nearly back at the guesthouse.
Me: “I thought you were taking me to the museum”?
Driver: “No madam, I asked you and you said you didn’t want to go”.
Me: “No you didn’t and I wouldn’t say no. You have cheated me”.
Driver: “Madam you are old and you forget”!
I will not write down my reply but you can imagine there were a few choice words of Anglo-Saxon origin!!
I stamped off in high dudgeon then and went into town. I found a shopping centre that had second-hand books for $2. I keep swapping books after I’ve read them but I was getting a bit low so treated myself to a couple.
After lunch I went to the Royal Palace. Luckily I’d read in the Lonely Planet that you can not go in unless you arms are covered and I had a polo shirt with me. There was a lot of the palace closed off to visitors but there was enough open to tire me out once again. As I was walking through the photographic exhibition, a monkey came strolling in off the street. Unfortunately by the time I’d realised, he had disappeared but when I got to the main street, there was an elephant being walked along by his keeper – you don’t get that in Preston town centre!
I went down to Tonle Sap to see how much the river trips were but as they wanted $10 for one hour I decided against it. I was approached by a man in his thirties and asked if I spoke English. Apparently he’d been on the bus from Siem Reap and had fallen asleep. Someone had helped themselves to his wallet and credit cards but it was too late for him to get money transferred from home and meanwhile could I possibly let him have a couple of dollars? I gave him $5 because he told a good story and like my Mum always says ‘It’s only money’.
I then beat the tuk-tuk driver down to $1 for the ride back home but gave him extra because I’d got it at my price!
I booked my boat ticket to Chau Doc in Vietnam for the next morning.
Saturday 29 August 2009
Jing Hong to Luang Nam Tha
31-07-09
It was a lovely run down to Jing Hong although it took longer than it should as we were detoured off the motorway and sent through the mountains. We overtook dozens of lorries all carrying soil with dozens coming the opposite way empty. I think they are relocating China lorry load by lorry load!
The video on the bus was showing Chinese kung fu movies with the sound track set at very loud. The third DVD had English sub titles (for my benefit?) and it was about a hopping zombie who had lost his mother, was being pursued by two inept men who wanted to kill him and taken in by two children. What a load of rubbish!!!!!
It was going dark as we arrived at Jing Hong and it looked lovely all lit up. It wasn't a bit like a Chinese town, probably because it is very close to the Thai, Lao and Burmese borders.
I checked in to the Banna Hostel and as I was going to my room, a black American guy said 'welcome baby girl'! I took one look at him and told him he needed to visit an optician as it was a long time since I was a baby or even a girl. I asked him if he was going to be there for a while as I needed to ask him a few questions about the town. He and his friend took me to the Mekong Cafe where I was placed in the capable hands of the owner's wife who was a mine of information as she used to be a tour guide.
I was told the taxi back was 5 yuan but the driver told me it was 20! I told him he was robbing me and I would only pay him 5. As I only had a 10 note, I got out of the taxi to try and get it changed. He followed me into the hostel where I got change and I said I had his number and would report him to the police! He went - not a happy bunny but he went.
I decided to go to the Tropical Botanic Gardens at Menglun. I showed the name in Chinese to the inspector who pointed me in the direction of the booth, the girl gave me a ticket and back to the inspector who took me (not quite by the hand) to the correct bus stop and told me to wait as my bus was not in. When it came, he took me to it and spoke to the driver. Off we went and just before the turn off to Menglun my driver stopped and beckoned me to follow him to another bus, where he said something to the to the new driver. We went for a couple of minutes then the bus stopped and I was told this was my stop. Sure enough, there were the gardens. Result!!!
The gardens were fantastic but so big. It was really hot too. There were tourist buses and I should have paid to go on them as they stopped at each section to let you view the exhibits. I walked back to the bus station and boy was I glad I'd been dropped off at the gardens as it was such a long walk.
I set off for the Mekong Cafe and got hopelessly lost. A young boy offered to show me the way and it must have taken us the best part of an hour to find the cafe (I think we went round in circles a couple of times) and he wouldn't even take his taxi fare back home. He was just pleased to speak English with me!
Sunday
I got up early and caught the bus to the Sunday market at Menghun. Unfortunately it absolutely hammered it down and the streets were just running with water. I saw some lovely silk fabrics but didn't buy. The village ladies were all wearing sarong style skirts and they looked really elegant, even with flip-flops and wellies on their feet!
I caught a local bus back to the city. The driver spent more time talking to his mates than keeping his eyes on the road.
I took a walk down to the Mekong River and walked through the park there but it wasn't near the river at all. I just had a sandwich at the Mekong Cafe as I'd eaten some chips from one of the street stalls. I got talking to a man called Jim Goodman. He was probably late fifties with bleached long blond hair, a couple of diamond(?) earings and a sparkly tee shirt. He was writing a book on the ethnic minorities of Yunnan and was very interesting to listen to.
Monday
I got nearly to the No 3 bus station when I realised I should have changed some money as I didn't have enough for the bus to Laos. Of course the banks were all back in town so wandered back in the stifling heat, changed money then got a taxi. The bus fare was only 70 yuan so I needn't have bothered changing anything. Still, I will have some local currency when I go back to China.
As I was going back to the room, I noticed a woman in a shop with a sewing machine. All my tops have gone baggy with hand washing them and hanging them up soaking wet. I took three as the others were being laundered and she ran seams up the sides of them and charged me the equivalent of 60p for all three.
Tuesday 04-08-09
Got up nice and early, hoping the sewing lady would also be up but she wasn't. I ended up having noodles for breakfast as nothing else was opened - not my favourite but I didn't know how long it would be before I would eat again.
The bus station was quiet and I kept asking if my bus was in yet. All of a sudden I was rushed on to a mini bus and off we went. It wasn't very full so it was nice having plenty room for a change. We stopped at Mohan to take on a load of fruit and veg, then it was a run through the villages to the border. There was a Korean young man got on the bus at Mohan. He had been hitch hiking through China and was going on to Thailand, India and all points west, hoping to get as far as South America.
At the border we had to get off the bus and walk through Immigration (should be Emigration as we were going out). It came to my turn and I was there for ages as the official looked at my passport going through it thoroughly and kept slapping it on to the machine underneath the counter. Finally another man came over and told me there was a problem with the machine before I was finally stamped out of the country.
Got back on the bus and drove to the Lao border where forms were filled out in triplicate then the information had to be written out again for another department! That was for the exit visa.
Two very handsome Hong Kong guys got on the Lao side and travelled to Luang Na Tha. They were also going to Thailand but they were catching a bus and not hitching. Luckily the bus stopped in the village and right outside the Manychun guesthouse where I wanted to stay. Mrs M changed 100 yuan into Lao money so I was able to eat. The guesthouse took Visa so I was OK there! When I got up next morning, there was an ATM opposite where I managed to get money out (maximum 50 pounds each day!). The ATMs in China wouldn't let me access my money for some odd reason but I could in a small country like Lao! Strange
It was a lovely run down to Jing Hong although it took longer than it should as we were detoured off the motorway and sent through the mountains. We overtook dozens of lorries all carrying soil with dozens coming the opposite way empty. I think they are relocating China lorry load by lorry load!
The video on the bus was showing Chinese kung fu movies with the sound track set at very loud. The third DVD had English sub titles (for my benefit?) and it was about a hopping zombie who had lost his mother, was being pursued by two inept men who wanted to kill him and taken in by two children. What a load of rubbish!!!!!
It was going dark as we arrived at Jing Hong and it looked lovely all lit up. It wasn't a bit like a Chinese town, probably because it is very close to the Thai, Lao and Burmese borders.
I checked in to the Banna Hostel and as I was going to my room, a black American guy said 'welcome baby girl'! I took one look at him and told him he needed to visit an optician as it was a long time since I was a baby or even a girl. I asked him if he was going to be there for a while as I needed to ask him a few questions about the town. He and his friend took me to the Mekong Cafe where I was placed in the capable hands of the owner's wife who was a mine of information as she used to be a tour guide.
I was told the taxi back was 5 yuan but the driver told me it was 20! I told him he was robbing me and I would only pay him 5. As I only had a 10 note, I got out of the taxi to try and get it changed. He followed me into the hostel where I got change and I said I had his number and would report him to the police! He went - not a happy bunny but he went.
I decided to go to the Tropical Botanic Gardens at Menglun. I showed the name in Chinese to the inspector who pointed me in the direction of the booth, the girl gave me a ticket and back to the inspector who took me (not quite by the hand) to the correct bus stop and told me to wait as my bus was not in. When it came, he took me to it and spoke to the driver. Off we went and just before the turn off to Menglun my driver stopped and beckoned me to follow him to another bus, where he said something to the to the new driver. We went for a couple of minutes then the bus stopped and I was told this was my stop. Sure enough, there were the gardens. Result!!!
The gardens were fantastic but so big. It was really hot too. There were tourist buses and I should have paid to go on them as they stopped at each section to let you view the exhibits. I walked back to the bus station and boy was I glad I'd been dropped off at the gardens as it was such a long walk.
I set off for the Mekong Cafe and got hopelessly lost. A young boy offered to show me the way and it must have taken us the best part of an hour to find the cafe (I think we went round in circles a couple of times) and he wouldn't even take his taxi fare back home. He was just pleased to speak English with me!
Sunday
I got up early and caught the bus to the Sunday market at Menghun. Unfortunately it absolutely hammered it down and the streets were just running with water. I saw some lovely silk fabrics but didn't buy. The village ladies were all wearing sarong style skirts and they looked really elegant, even with flip-flops and wellies on their feet!
I caught a local bus back to the city. The driver spent more time talking to his mates than keeping his eyes on the road.
I took a walk down to the Mekong River and walked through the park there but it wasn't near the river at all. I just had a sandwich at the Mekong Cafe as I'd eaten some chips from one of the street stalls. I got talking to a man called Jim Goodman. He was probably late fifties with bleached long blond hair, a couple of diamond(?) earings and a sparkly tee shirt. He was writing a book on the ethnic minorities of Yunnan and was very interesting to listen to.
Monday
I got nearly to the No 3 bus station when I realised I should have changed some money as I didn't have enough for the bus to Laos. Of course the banks were all back in town so wandered back in the stifling heat, changed money then got a taxi. The bus fare was only 70 yuan so I needn't have bothered changing anything. Still, I will have some local currency when I go back to China.
As I was going back to the room, I noticed a woman in a shop with a sewing machine. All my tops have gone baggy with hand washing them and hanging them up soaking wet. I took three as the others were being laundered and she ran seams up the sides of them and charged me the equivalent of 60p for all three.
Tuesday 04-08-09
Got up nice and early, hoping the sewing lady would also be up but she wasn't. I ended up having noodles for breakfast as nothing else was opened - not my favourite but I didn't know how long it would be before I would eat again.
The bus station was quiet and I kept asking if my bus was in yet. All of a sudden I was rushed on to a mini bus and off we went. It wasn't very full so it was nice having plenty room for a change. We stopped at Mohan to take on a load of fruit and veg, then it was a run through the villages to the border. There was a Korean young man got on the bus at Mohan. He had been hitch hiking through China and was going on to Thailand, India and all points west, hoping to get as far as South America.
At the border we had to get off the bus and walk through Immigration (should be Emigration as we were going out). It came to my turn and I was there for ages as the official looked at my passport going through it thoroughly and kept slapping it on to the machine underneath the counter. Finally another man came over and told me there was a problem with the machine before I was finally stamped out of the country.
Got back on the bus and drove to the Lao border where forms were filled out in triplicate then the information had to be written out again for another department! That was for the exit visa.
Two very handsome Hong Kong guys got on the Lao side and travelled to Luang Na Tha. They were also going to Thailand but they were catching a bus and not hitching. Luckily the bus stopped in the village and right outside the Manychun guesthouse where I wanted to stay. Mrs M changed 100 yuan into Lao money so I was able to eat. The guesthouse took Visa so I was OK there! When I got up next morning, there was an ATM opposite where I managed to get money out (maximum 50 pounds each day!). The ATMs in China wouldn't let me access my money for some odd reason but I could in a small country like Lao! Strange
Kunming 30-07-09
I booked my ticket to Jing Hong then went on the K5 bus to see where it went to. I noticed another Walmart off the main road, got off at the next stop and walked back. I couldn’t spot the sign again so I crossed over the road to see if I could see it from that side. I passed a theatre that said there was a Broadway musical on the night. It was called ‘The Dream of Yunnan’ and had been a smash hit in New York. I decided to come back that evening and try and get in.
The Walmart sign was visible from that side and was a huge one over four floors. Nothing in my size though – there’s a surprise. I bought a retractable tape measure just in case I should find anything that may fit, plus a small padlock for my suitcase. I decided to take off the packaging and leave all my rubbish there when I dropped the tape measure and it just fell to pieces. I casually picked it all up and put it in the bin then slunk off, hoping that no one had noticed!! Fat chance as I am the centre of attraction wherever I am.
I got back to the hostel about ten minutes before the heavens opened and got the washing in. The Chinese girl had been smoking in the room again as she didn’t expect me back then and she didn’t think I would notice. I finished my packing ready for the off next morning and got ready for the theatre.
I went back to the theatre for 7 pm and booked a seat. The theatre resembled a night club with tables facing the stage, with six to eight chairs at each. On the table were what looked like hands and when you shook them, they clapped. The Chinese were made up with them and just like big kids couldn’t stop playing with them. A couple of men lit cigarettes and were told it was not allowed for which I was very grateful.
The show started with an old man and his granddaughter returning to Yunnan. He’d been shot down during the war and had parachuted out of his plane, landing in Yunnan and he was talking of the happy times he’d spent there and how welcome the local people had made him. It was really corny but the music, costumes and sets were fantastic. At one time the young airman was ‘so happy he did a step dance’ – just like an Irish jig – totally inappropriate!
At half time it lapsed into pantomime as some members of the audience were dragged up to participate. I lost the plot a bit then as it was all in Chinese with no chance of any sub-titles.
Later on, the cast came out giving ‘drinks of friendship’ to the audience. One guy came right from the back and plonked himself on my table in front of me. I tapped him very politely on the shoulder and motioned him to move as I couldn’t see. He just shrugged me off. Wrong move. I tapped a little harder and he got the message.
Then there was the young boy who was showing people to their seats earlier. He stood there tapping the clappy hands and being a right nuisance. The Chinese are unable to be quiet for anything and mobile phones were going off all over the place.
The Walmart sign was visible from that side and was a huge one over four floors. Nothing in my size though – there’s a surprise. I bought a retractable tape measure just in case I should find anything that may fit, plus a small padlock for my suitcase. I decided to take off the packaging and leave all my rubbish there when I dropped the tape measure and it just fell to pieces. I casually picked it all up and put it in the bin then slunk off, hoping that no one had noticed!! Fat chance as I am the centre of attraction wherever I am.
I got back to the hostel about ten minutes before the heavens opened and got the washing in. The Chinese girl had been smoking in the room again as she didn’t expect me back then and she didn’t think I would notice. I finished my packing ready for the off next morning and got ready for the theatre.
I went back to the theatre for 7 pm and booked a seat. The theatre resembled a night club with tables facing the stage, with six to eight chairs at each. On the table were what looked like hands and when you shook them, they clapped. The Chinese were made up with them and just like big kids couldn’t stop playing with them. A couple of men lit cigarettes and were told it was not allowed for which I was very grateful.
The show started with an old man and his granddaughter returning to Yunnan. He’d been shot down during the war and had parachuted out of his plane, landing in Yunnan and he was talking of the happy times he’d spent there and how welcome the local people had made him. It was really corny but the music, costumes and sets were fantastic. At one time the young airman was ‘so happy he did a step dance’ – just like an Irish jig – totally inappropriate!
At half time it lapsed into pantomime as some members of the audience were dragged up to participate. I lost the plot a bit then as it was all in Chinese with no chance of any sub-titles.
Later on, the cast came out giving ‘drinks of friendship’ to the audience. One guy came right from the back and plonked himself on my table in front of me. I tapped him very politely on the shoulder and motioned him to move as I couldn’t see. He just shrugged me off. Wrong move. I tapped a little harder and he got the message.
Then there was the young boy who was showing people to their seats earlier. He stood there tapping the clappy hands and being a right nuisance. The Chinese are unable to be quiet for anything and mobile phones were going off all over the place.
Wednesday 26 August 2009
Siem Reap and Angkor
21-08-09
The flight to Siem Reap stopped at Savannakhet where we all had to get off, go through arrivals and then straight back out through departures so we could legally depart from
We arrived at Siem Reap and it was completely flat – no mountains for miles. It seemed so strange after
I had a lovely meal at a restaurant over the road. It was a whole (smallish) crab and vegetables. The waiters had a right laugh at my expense as they watchd me struggle with the shells. It was delicious though.
I was up at 4:30 am to go and watch the sun rise over Angkor Wat - me and about 5,000 others! It was absolutely magic watching the sky lighten and the temples come into view. It was everything I expected and more. I went in to the temple complex from the back – I thought that the entrance would face the sunrise but it didn’t as it was dedicated to Vishnu, the god of the evening (or something like that!). It was a good move though as everyone else went in the front. The Lonely Planet said that some of the steps were at a seventy degree angle and they were not kidding. I passed on that – my mountain goat days are long gone!!! I met a Scottish lady as I was coming out and we got talking like you do. She was going to Luang Prabang with her daughter and I said that was another world heritage site, as was
The tuk-tuk driver was waiting for me to go to the next temple which was Angkor Thom. That had a bridge leading to it which is lined with giants handling ‘nagas’ – giant snakes. It reminded me of the song where you all sit on the floor and row boats (something like oops inside your head?). Ta Prohm temple was where some of Lara Croft’s adventures were filmed and there are trees with giant roots growing through the buildings– 1-0 to nature over man!
The temples were just amazing but I really needed the tuk-tuk as they were so far from each other. By midday I was all templed out and it had got really hot so we called it a day. I’d bought a three day pass so I could go back whenever I wanted.
I went into town in the afternoon and had a look at the market and shops then had buttered shrimps for my evening meal at the restaurant over the road. And then another early night to get ready for the next day’s excursions.
23-08-09
Up with the lark and walked into town for breakfast. The staff at the guesthouse were so slow at serving I couldn’t be bothered waiting. After I had eaten, a tuk-tuk driver asked where I wanted to go so I pointed to the temples at Roluos and asked how much? $8 was the reply so off we went. These were quite a way outside Siem Reap and were much older but just as interesting. Fortunately there weren’t too many of them! I then went to the museum whilst the driver waited outside. I booked him to go the
The driver said that the sunset was best from Phnom Bakheng, which was up a hill – a very long one as it happened. I could have had an elephant ride up for $20 (down was $15) but passed on that. I climbed up and up and finally got to the top. I watched people literally scrambling up the temple steps and looked round all four sides for an easy way. There wasn’t. It would have been bad enough going up in daylight but coming down after sunset would have been a nightmare!! Down I came and went to Angkor Wat for the sunset. It wasn’t a good one as there were too many clouds. I learnt later that the people had been cleared off the temple before the sunset so I didn’t miss anything.
I ate at the guesthouse next door then went to bed. It felt like midnight but it was only 8 pm – I still went to bed!
24-08-09
The driver picked me up at 7 am and off we went to see the flooded
I was taken to several more temples but the steps seemed to get steeper and steeper so I called it a day and went off to do my packing as the bus left at 7:30am the next day.
Vientiane to Don Det and back to Vientiane
I was early for the night sleeper so sat quietly reading a Stephen King book I’d bought in
The bus was very nice but unfortunately the ‘double bed’ was only 33 inches across. Luckily for my sleeping companion, the bus wasn’t full and he found another berth near the back!
It was quite comfortable with just one in but it would have been very cosy with two of us. I would have ended up sitting in the aisle rather than being squashed! We got to Pakse around 7 am, in time for the bus to take us to Ban Nakasang and then over to Don Det. The 'ferry' was one of those very narrow boats with a big outboard motor. It was not easy to get on to it and even worse getting off. I went looking for the guesthouse and everyone kept telling me it was very far. The Canadian must not have known that there were two ferry landings and I'd been dumped at the wrong one!
I passed many beach huts but they were all on the sunrise side and I wanted the sunset. I finally found what I was looking for and checked in (that's a laugh!). It was only later I realised that I should have been in Sunset View Bungalows and not the Sunset I'd chosen. I wasn't complaining as it was only one pound eighty per night (no pound sign on this keyboard).
We had a terrific thunderstorm that night and you cannot imagine the noise the rain made on the corrugated tin roof! The girls next door came in a 1am and woke me up. That was it for the night. About 3am I could here pattering outside on the stairs. It was pitch black so I got the torch.. It was the dogs from the house sheltering from the rain. They wouldn’t be shifted and pattered around for the rest of the night. The thunder and lightning continued until daylight at 5:30.
Wouldn’t you know that on an island with no mains electricity, the battery would go in my digital camera. I also needed to charge the new camcorder battery so I asked the man at the internet place. I got them charged but couldn’t get the camcorder to work and I was considering my options – go back to Vientiane with it (another overnight on the bus) or carry on and hope to get it fixed under guarantee when I got home. I decided to go back and then get a flight to Siem Reap for
16-08-09
I’d booked a waterfall tour with the guy at the internet place. That was leaving at 8 am. Back over to the other side on the titchy boat, a ride in a minibus for about one and a half hours, turfed out at the site and told to be back in one hour – some tour!! The driver could only get first, third and fifth gears and he was taking passengers down to the border and then picking up more to go to the islands along with the three he’d dropped off at the waterfall. Well the waterfall was spectacular but it would have been nice to have someone explain things to us.
We got back to Don Det around lunchtime so what to do? There was a small bridge connecting Don Det to Don Khon and that island had a waterfall too so maybe I should walk to it? I set off on the sunrise side of the island and although it was quite hot, the path was very shady. I got over the bridge and a little man jumped out and demanded 9,000 kip for crossing it. I paid up then called at a café for some lunch. I made the mistake of shaking the warm bottle of tomato sauce and when I took the lid off, it exploded all over me, the table and the floor! What a mess I was in. All I could do was laugh. The lady took me to the bathroom and cleaned me of best she could. My top dried on me while I was walking to the waterfall and it was miles away. I then had to walk back but I took the shorter tuk-tuk road across the middle of the island. I couldn’t have walked on that road during the day as there was no shade. I must have walked about 12 kms in all but it was a nice walk and I took it very slowly.
Although the island was lovely during the day, the nights seemed awful long once the generators were switched off at 10 pm, so two nights were definitely enough.
18-08-09
I didn’t leave until 11 am but the unlucky ones who were catching the 8 am ferry would have got absolutely drenched as the heavens opened just before they left.
It was a nice run back to Pakse with time to spend in the town before catching the night sleeper back to
19.08.09
I had breakfast before looking for a room as it was quite early and then when I started asking I was told to come back after 11am. I needed a room before then just to dump the bags. Like I always say, there is always a room at the best hotel in town. The Vayakorn wasn’t the top hotel but it wasn’t cheap – but they did take Visa! It was quite an old hotel with huge rooms and lovely wooden floors. Outdoor shoes were not allowed up the stairs and there were warnings to be careful coming down in socks as ’’you may fall down’”.
I went back with the camcorder and the man was very surprised to see me. I told him I couldn’t get it to work. Wouldn’t you know, he just switched it on and it started!!! I hadn’t been holding the button in long enough. He was most apologetic as he thought he hadn’t taught me properly! Talk about feeling a right divvy! Any way, problem solved, now to get the ticket to Siem Reap. There were no flights out until the 21st. I weighed up the options; back to Pakse on the night sleeper, over to the Cambodian border and then on to Siem Reap, two and a half days travelling; or going into Thailand (the border was only thirty minutes away), flying down to Bangkok (it was a pretty cheap internal flight) and by road to Siem Reap - again two and a half days on the road. I booked the flight!
I had my evening meal about 7:30 and found I was dropping asleep so back to the hotel. My sleep patterns are shot to hell. I find I am going to bed at 9 pm and waking up and being out for 6 am.
20.08.09
All the temples were decked out in bunting and I found out later that it had been some kind of holy day when people took food, gifts and money for the monks. It seemed quite a social affair and I’m only sorry I didn’t get the full tale.
I took a walk down by the river at night and it looked really nice with all the food stalls set out. It really reminded me of the Greek harbours. I met the French couple who had been on the bus from Phonsavanh having a last meal before they flew home the next morning.
Thursday 20 August 2009
Phonsavanh to Vientiane
13-08-09
I thought I’d booked a VIP bus to go from Phonsavanh to Vientiane but as usual, it wasn’t quite as expected! It was a typical ramshackle local bus with open the windows for air-con. The driver and conductor were working on the engine when I got there but we set off more or less on time.
After about ten minutes, the driver stopped at a silk farm and waited a while until a little woman came scurrying down the path. She got all smiling and apologetic and off we set. The driver kept talking on his mobile (apparently not illegal here) and looking worried. We stopped again at the top of hill and the driver got out as did everyone else. It was too early for a toilet stop and as no-one spoke English, the five Europeans were thinking the bus had broken down.
After a further thirty minutes, a pick-up truck loaded with people and boxes pulled in front and started to offload on to the bus. I bet Fishwicks wouldn’t have bothered! The driver pipped his horn and we all got on – or so we thought. Suddenly rushing down the road came the silk farm woman carrying a three foot tree complete with roots and got on the bus.
The road went towards Luang Prabang – obviously only one road along the mountain top until there was a small village. We turned left towards Vientiane and carried on climbing. We stopped at the equivalent of a transport café in a village on the top of a view to die for. Lunch was noodle soup or buffet and cost 10,000 kip (about 70p).
After that we started the descent to Vientiane – through more magnificent scenery but this time limestone pinnacles. According to one knowledgeable soul, they had once been at the bottom of the Mediterranean Sea. They’d traveled quite a bit then.
Vientiane seemed so busy after the villages and it was quite a shock to see traffic lights. It is the biggest city in Laos and has 300,000 inhabitants. As we got in quite late (19:30), it was a ride on the tuk-tuk into town and then start looking for a room. I tried one or two hotels but they were quite expensive ($20 or more). A tuk-tuk driver asked me if I needed a room and he would help me and it would only cost 10,000 kip. Seemed a bargain to me and it was still very hot so I climbed in. We went about 100 m when he stopped at the Souxsana guest house. I got out and was told that he had a room with air-con for 130,000 or with fan for 110,000. The driver said to go and look at the room before I decided. It was up three flights of stairs and no lift. However, it was fine, clean and with own bathroom and hot shower. Although it is very hot here, I do not like cold showers!
14-08-09
I woke up early and had raisin toast, coffee and fresh fruit for breakfast then went walking. I found the river, day market and tourist information plus seeing several temples on the way. Next was a walk to Pha That Luang – the most important stupa in Laos, passing on the way Vientiane’s equivalent of the Arc de Triomphe. It has never been completed and looks quite forlorn there although it is on a lovely wide avenue with a park at the back of it. A coat of paint wouldn’t go amiss. It is possible to climb up for good views of the city. I passed on that!
Pha That Luang was a bit of a disappointment, although it looked good until you got close. I paid to go inside but you could only go up two levels and there wasn’t too much to see. There are several very impressive temples around and you didn’t pay to go in them.
I decided to go to China Town for supper and passed the Lao Cultural Hall on the way. There were a lot of people and stalls there so I asked a man what was going on. It was fund-raising for the Lions and there was a fashion show and a concert – tickets all sold out unfortunately.
I passed a laundry and asked them if they could do my laundry for the next afternoon as the girl at the guest house wouldn’t do it as ‘it was raining’. I asked how much and was told 50,000 kip per kg for washing, drying and ironing. I then realized she had said 15,000. I told the girl I didn’t want the ironing as everything gets rolled up in a rucksack. I was rapidly running out of clothes so I went back and got the laundry.
As I was too late for the night market, I had my meal at an Indian restaurant I’d seen in the morning. It was very good too!
15-08-09
I needed to book my ticket for Pakse and had been told by the tourist office that I could get a bus from round the corner. I waited for ages at a bus stop but none came. The young man parking cars asked where I was going then told me I was on the wrong side! I crossed over and waited for ages again then spotted buses going round the corner further up the road. On investigation, there was a bus station there. The tuk-tuk drivers all want to know where you are going and one told me to sit down and he would find out. After ten minutes I decided to give it up as a bad job when he came rushing back and put me on to the right bus.
I found the right stand and booked the night sleeper, leaving at 8 pm then came back to town. I was walking through Talat Sao (the one shopping mall in the whole country) when I saw a Sony camcorder for sale. It seemed a reasonable price so I bought it. The man demonstrated it fully to me then packed it up and off I went.
I picked up my laundry, packed it away and went to the bus station for the sleeper.
I thought I’d booked a VIP bus to go from Phonsavanh to Vientiane but as usual, it wasn’t quite as expected! It was a typical ramshackle local bus with open the windows for air-con. The driver and conductor were working on the engine when I got there but we set off more or less on time.
After about ten minutes, the driver stopped at a silk farm and waited a while until a little woman came scurrying down the path. She got all smiling and apologetic and off we set. The driver kept talking on his mobile (apparently not illegal here) and looking worried. We stopped again at the top of hill and the driver got out as did everyone else. It was too early for a toilet stop and as no-one spoke English, the five Europeans were thinking the bus had broken down.
After a further thirty minutes, a pick-up truck loaded with people and boxes pulled in front and started to offload on to the bus. I bet Fishwicks wouldn’t have bothered! The driver pipped his horn and we all got on – or so we thought. Suddenly rushing down the road came the silk farm woman carrying a three foot tree complete with roots and got on the bus.
The road went towards Luang Prabang – obviously only one road along the mountain top until there was a small village. We turned left towards Vientiane and carried on climbing. We stopped at the equivalent of a transport café in a village on the top of a view to die for. Lunch was noodle soup or buffet and cost 10,000 kip (about 70p).
After that we started the descent to Vientiane – through more magnificent scenery but this time limestone pinnacles. According to one knowledgeable soul, they had once been at the bottom of the Mediterranean Sea. They’d traveled quite a bit then.
Vientiane seemed so busy after the villages and it was quite a shock to see traffic lights. It is the biggest city in Laos and has 300,000 inhabitants. As we got in quite late (19:30), it was a ride on the tuk-tuk into town and then start looking for a room. I tried one or two hotels but they were quite expensive ($20 or more). A tuk-tuk driver asked me if I needed a room and he would help me and it would only cost 10,000 kip. Seemed a bargain to me and it was still very hot so I climbed in. We went about 100 m when he stopped at the Souxsana guest house. I got out and was told that he had a room with air-con for 130,000 or with fan for 110,000. The driver said to go and look at the room before I decided. It was up three flights of stairs and no lift. However, it was fine, clean and with own bathroom and hot shower. Although it is very hot here, I do not like cold showers!
14-08-09
I woke up early and had raisin toast, coffee and fresh fruit for breakfast then went walking. I found the river, day market and tourist information plus seeing several temples on the way. Next was a walk to Pha That Luang – the most important stupa in Laos, passing on the way Vientiane’s equivalent of the Arc de Triomphe. It has never been completed and looks quite forlorn there although it is on a lovely wide avenue with a park at the back of it. A coat of paint wouldn’t go amiss. It is possible to climb up for good views of the city. I passed on that!
Pha That Luang was a bit of a disappointment, although it looked good until you got close. I paid to go inside but you could only go up two levels and there wasn’t too much to see. There are several very impressive temples around and you didn’t pay to go in them.
I decided to go to China Town for supper and passed the Lao Cultural Hall on the way. There were a lot of people and stalls there so I asked a man what was going on. It was fund-raising for the Lions and there was a fashion show and a concert – tickets all sold out unfortunately.
I passed a laundry and asked them if they could do my laundry for the next afternoon as the girl at the guest house wouldn’t do it as ‘it was raining’. I asked how much and was told 50,000 kip per kg for washing, drying and ironing. I then realized she had said 15,000. I told the girl I didn’t want the ironing as everything gets rolled up in a rucksack. I was rapidly running out of clothes so I went back and got the laundry.
As I was too late for the night market, I had my meal at an Indian restaurant I’d seen in the morning. It was very good too!
15-08-09
I needed to book my ticket for Pakse and had been told by the tourist office that I could get a bus from round the corner. I waited for ages at a bus stop but none came. The young man parking cars asked where I was going then told me I was on the wrong side! I crossed over and waited for ages again then spotted buses going round the corner further up the road. On investigation, there was a bus station there. The tuk-tuk drivers all want to know where you are going and one told me to sit down and he would find out. After ten minutes I decided to give it up as a bad job when he came rushing back and put me on to the right bus.
I found the right stand and booked the night sleeper, leaving at 8 pm then came back to town. I was walking through Talat Sao (the one shopping mall in the whole country) when I saw a Sony camcorder for sale. It seemed a reasonable price so I bought it. The man demonstrated it fully to me then packed it up and off I went.
I picked up my laundry, packed it away and went to the bus station for the sleeper.
Wednesday 19 August 2009
22-07-09 Eclipse Day
After dawn to dusk continuous sunshine for two weeks and temperatures in the 40s, eclipse day was grey and cloudy. I woke up at 5 pm ready for the epic journey to Yanguan. Everything went to plan, first catching the bus to East Bus Station then the 523 to Yangtan. Time was getting on as I transferred to the 106 and the sky was getting darker as first contact time approached. It started raining as I got to the River Viewing place. I met the Dutch couple again and they said they had been there since 7 am. The clouds kept lifting briefly and each time there was a sigh from the crowd. There was no need to use the eclipse glasses because of the cloud coverage. As totality approached, the birds started flying back to their nests and a huge black cloud covered what tiny bit of sun we could see. It went very dark at totality and as soon as the moon’s shadow started moving away, the sky cleared up enough to track its progress. It was a huge disappointment but maybe I will get to Easter Island next year to see one there? I very much doubt I could afford it as Easter Island is off Chile somewhere in the Pacific.
I wandered away from the crowds and went to watch the tidal bore from the village. It was OK but not as big as I expected. Maybe if I’d stayed it would have looked better form the viewing stands.
23-07-09 Hangzhou to Shanghai
I tried every combination of routes to get out of Hangzhou and the only place I could get out to was Shanghai. That was OK as I managed to book a soft sleeper to Kunming for two days later on Saturday.
I left my bags at the station as I needed to find a hostel. There was a good one mentioned in the Lonely Planet and it was near the Metro line. Unfortunately it was fully booked so the next choice was the Ming Hostel near to the Bund. I managed to find it eventually and they said they only had a bed for one night but there may be a cancellation the next morning.
I asked how to get to the train station and was told the bus stopped just round the corner. It was easier than the Metro. The hostel did food so I ate there that night. The young girl behind the bar was horrified when I ordered a second beer and asked if I always drank that much? I said I was going to have another one after that and I did. That was the most I have had to drink on any one night but I really enjoyed them.
Friday 24th July
Luckily the hostel had a bed for that night and as the weather was pretty miserable but hot and sticky so I went round the air-conditioned shops in Nanjing Lu then over to the Pudong side to look at their shops. I ate again at the hostel but only had two beers this time!!!
25-07-09 Shanghai to Kunming (48 hours by train)
I had booked soft sleeper (first class) to Kunming but they only had an upper berth. I shared the compartment with a elderly couple (probably my age!) and a grandma with her grandson. I scrambled up to my bed with the couple watching in trepidation in case I fell. There was every chance of that! I had been asleep about one hour when the child started howling, moaning and screaming. This went on for about three hours. The grandma kept taking him outside then when he was quiet, she would bring him back in and he would start again. He did eventually go to sleep.
The next morning he was all smiles even though I was threatening him with what would happen that night if there was a repeat performance. All said with a smile on my face too. The grandma tried to talk to me in Chinese but I couldn’t understand her. She got my Mandarin phrase book and pointed to the ‘like’. She said ‘he likes you’ and kept saying it every time she saw me in the corridor. I had to keep dodging from one end of the carriage to the other to avoid them!
About 4 pm a couple of girls asked if they could talk to me and I said it was fine. Before we knew it, there was about twelve all around me, all asking questions. It was quite nice as I’d hardly said anything from the previous day as travelers tend to go hard sleeper unlike softie me.
The grandma and child got off the train at 6 pm, which was a relief as I was not looking forward to another screaming night.
The couple got off early the next morning. The train didn’t move for a while so I went to ask the carriage attendant what was the matter. She spoke a little English and said that her train was late and she didn’t like it. We had a bit of a conversation but she couldn’t explain why we were delayed or when the train would be going. She finally found someone who spoke English who told me we were on a detour as there had been some flooding the night before. With hindsight, I think possibly it would have been quicker to get off the train and catch a bus.
We finally arrived about seven hours late. There was no chance of a taxi as the whole twenty carriages of people were queuing up. I got the bus but as usual went past the stop where I should have got off. I then took a taxi to the hostel only to be told it was full. The girl rang through to the Camellia Hostel who DID have a dorm bed so I got in another taxi and checked in there. The room was pretty big and we had a hot shower.
28th July Monday
The girl on Reception said there was a Walmart nearby so I took a wander down that evening as I needed a polo shirt and as they are an American firm, I thought they might have one big enough for me. They did. I also got a tee shirt but it was a bit neat on me. I noticed they had instant photos and as I had left mine on the bed at home, I needed to get some for my visas. There was a bit of a queue and rather than wait, I thought I would go back the next morning.
29-07-09 Tuesday
I got up bright and early to walk to the store. When I got there, there was a boy sitting behind the counter, watching ‘In the Night Garden’. I said ‘Excuse me’ – no response. A little louder – no response. At that, I banged really hard on the counter and finally got his attention. He strolled down and when I asked about the photos he said no. I asked why he was advertising a service that he couldn’t provide and I would like to talk to the manager. Several people later, the manager finally arrived. I explained I needed the photos and had come back specially to get them from there. Without more ado, he told on of the assistants to take me to the photo shop down the road. The boy’s name, according to the manager was Dragon – a fairly weedy little one at that.
Although the shop advertised opening hours as 08:30 -22:00, there was no sign of anybody at 9 am. Poor Dragon was really itching to get away from me but he had his orders. The shop finally opened about ten minutes later, he explained what I needed and scurried off. The photos were OK and reasonably cheap.
After two and a half days in Kunming, I finally recognized something from five years ago. The Brilliant Plaza had just been built then but it is now surrounded by lots of other buildings.
I wandered away from the crowds and went to watch the tidal bore from the village. It was OK but not as big as I expected. Maybe if I’d stayed it would have looked better form the viewing stands.
23-07-09 Hangzhou to Shanghai
I tried every combination of routes to get out of Hangzhou and the only place I could get out to was Shanghai. That was OK as I managed to book a soft sleeper to Kunming for two days later on Saturday.
I left my bags at the station as I needed to find a hostel. There was a good one mentioned in the Lonely Planet and it was near the Metro line. Unfortunately it was fully booked so the next choice was the Ming Hostel near to the Bund. I managed to find it eventually and they said they only had a bed for one night but there may be a cancellation the next morning.
I asked how to get to the train station and was told the bus stopped just round the corner. It was easier than the Metro. The hostel did food so I ate there that night. The young girl behind the bar was horrified when I ordered a second beer and asked if I always drank that much? I said I was going to have another one after that and I did. That was the most I have had to drink on any one night but I really enjoyed them.
Friday 24th July
Luckily the hostel had a bed for that night and as the weather was pretty miserable but hot and sticky so I went round the air-conditioned shops in Nanjing Lu then over to the Pudong side to look at their shops. I ate again at the hostel but only had two beers this time!!!
25-07-09 Shanghai to Kunming (48 hours by train)
I had booked soft sleeper (first class) to Kunming but they only had an upper berth. I shared the compartment with a elderly couple (probably my age!) and a grandma with her grandson. I scrambled up to my bed with the couple watching in trepidation in case I fell. There was every chance of that! I had been asleep about one hour when the child started howling, moaning and screaming. This went on for about three hours. The grandma kept taking him outside then when he was quiet, she would bring him back in and he would start again. He did eventually go to sleep.
The next morning he was all smiles even though I was threatening him with what would happen that night if there was a repeat performance. All said with a smile on my face too. The grandma tried to talk to me in Chinese but I couldn’t understand her. She got my Mandarin phrase book and pointed to the ‘like’. She said ‘he likes you’ and kept saying it every time she saw me in the corridor. I had to keep dodging from one end of the carriage to the other to avoid them!
About 4 pm a couple of girls asked if they could talk to me and I said it was fine. Before we knew it, there was about twelve all around me, all asking questions. It was quite nice as I’d hardly said anything from the previous day as travelers tend to go hard sleeper unlike softie me.
The grandma and child got off the train at 6 pm, which was a relief as I was not looking forward to another screaming night.
The couple got off early the next morning. The train didn’t move for a while so I went to ask the carriage attendant what was the matter. She spoke a little English and said that her train was late and she didn’t like it. We had a bit of a conversation but she couldn’t explain why we were delayed or when the train would be going. She finally found someone who spoke English who told me we were on a detour as there had been some flooding the night before. With hindsight, I think possibly it would have been quicker to get off the train and catch a bus.
We finally arrived about seven hours late. There was no chance of a taxi as the whole twenty carriages of people were queuing up. I got the bus but as usual went past the stop where I should have got off. I then took a taxi to the hostel only to be told it was full. The girl rang through to the Camellia Hostel who DID have a dorm bed so I got in another taxi and checked in there. The room was pretty big and we had a hot shower.
28th July Monday
The girl on Reception said there was a Walmart nearby so I took a wander down that evening as I needed a polo shirt and as they are an American firm, I thought they might have one big enough for me. They did. I also got a tee shirt but it was a bit neat on me. I noticed they had instant photos and as I had left mine on the bed at home, I needed to get some for my visas. There was a bit of a queue and rather than wait, I thought I would go back the next morning.
29-07-09 Tuesday
I got up bright and early to walk to the store. When I got there, there was a boy sitting behind the counter, watching ‘In the Night Garden’. I said ‘Excuse me’ – no response. A little louder – no response. At that, I banged really hard on the counter and finally got his attention. He strolled down and when I asked about the photos he said no. I asked why he was advertising a service that he couldn’t provide and I would like to talk to the manager. Several people later, the manager finally arrived. I explained I needed the photos and had come back specially to get them from there. Without more ado, he told on of the assistants to take me to the photo shop down the road. The boy’s name, according to the manager was Dragon – a fairly weedy little one at that.
Although the shop advertised opening hours as 08:30 -22:00, there was no sign of anybody at 9 am. Poor Dragon was really itching to get away from me but he had his orders. The shop finally opened about ten minutes later, he explained what I needed and scurried off. The photos were OK and reasonably cheap.
After two and a half days in Kunming, I finally recognized something from five years ago. The Brilliant Plaza had just been built then but it is now surrounded by lots of other buildings.
Friday 14 August 2009
Tun Xi to Hangzhou
15.07.09
I decided to go to the Taoist mountain, Qiyun Shan. I asked the girls at the hostel and again they wrote everything down so off I went to the bus station and on to the correct bus. Who needs to speak the language? This is getting too easy!!! The driver put me off and pointed in the right direction. Again it was very hot so I found the cable car - not too easy - and went up. The views were really good but the mountain looked pretty high and it was very hot so down I came. It was lovely in the village and so nice to get away from the city.
I then caught the bus to Yixian the opposite way to Tun Xi. It was a nice run but the town wasn’t very exciting. Having bought a watch as mine had broken, watched a man making noodles and had a stroll round the town where I was the afternoon matinee (I don’t think they got many tourists there), I caught the bus back. I missed the bus station as I was snoozing but the bus terminated at the Tun Xi railway station so it worked out fine!
16.07.09
I had a lazy day, touring the town via the local buses – I can recommend it as a very cheap way to see the sights.
17.07.09
The hostel booked the bus and hostel for Hangzhou. I was picked up at 08:30 and transferred to a bus going to Hangzhou. This was supposed to be air-conditioned but somewhere along the way it stopped working. I was sitting next to a little Chinese man. He was never still for more than a minute and every now and then his phone would ring. I don’t know if I mentioned the Chinese ringtones? They ARE VERY LOUD and very annoying. They ring for ages while the owner checks on the caller then shouts what sounds like ‘WEIGH’. I have never known any Chinese person speak quietly on the mobile!
I managed to get to the hostel via two buses and a lot of help. What a disappointment after the Koala Hostel! There were three sets of bunks and six lockers crammed into a room not much bigger than my bathroom and that’s small! Still, it was very clean and the shower was hot. Unfortunately for me there wasn’t a bottom bunk. The people at the hostel said that three French girls had the bottom bunks and maybe one would swap? They didn’t come in until 21:30 but one did swap and they were very nice about it.
Hangzhou 18.07.09
After buying breakfast at Carrefour, I set off on a mission to find the way to Yanguan to watch the eclipse. The Lonely Planet and the internet both said it was easy to get there and took about half an hour. The tourist office told me to go to the railway station and get the Shanghai train, getting off at Haining and then catch the 109 bus to Yanguan. The train alone took half an hour and then it was a further fifty minutes on the local bus (it was very cheap though!)
I found the River Viewing Park right outside the bus terminus and went up, only to be told ‘there is no river today’. I said I knew that but I wanted to see the river anyway. It was a lovely walk along the promenade and there was a nice breeze blowing – very refreshing. And yes, the river was there; quite wide and very muddy looking.
I caught the 106 back, only to be told it only went to the bus station and then I had to catch the express bus to Hangzhou which took another hour or so.
Yanguan was perfect to watch the eclipse but how to get there in good time for first contact at 08:23? I spent all Sunday trying to find a quicker way to get there but no joy.
20.07.09
I changed to the European Style Holiday Hotel early Monday morning. I’d booked this before I set off for China. I didn’t realize it was near the railway station until I spotted it from the station esplanade on the Saturday. The only thing European about the hotel was its name!! It was Chinese owned and run the Chinese way. The air-con was blowing warm, there was no fridge (although it said there was a mini ice-box) and no wardrobes, just a coat stand. There was a TV though. The bathroom was nice but all tiled so very slippery when wet. I complained about the air-con but it didn’t get fixed until late the next day. I asked if there was somewhere to dry my laundry. The girl on the desk said yes but the boy on the fifth floor said only in the bathroom. It looked very much like a Chinese laundry with all my garments hanging up in there!!!
I took the train to Ningbo as the Lonely Planet said it was a nice place to visit. It may have been when the LP reviewed it but now it was like all the other Chinese cities – in the process of being rebuilt!! Also very busy with lots of traffic. I had a lovely meal at a Lebanese restaurant. I think they added the bill up wrong (in my favour) but I cannot be sure.
I’d just missed a train back but as I’d boat a first class ticket I could stay in the soft seat lounge. It had very fierce air-con and I nearly froze to death but you do get to board the train before the second class people.
21.07.09
I decided to have one more go at finding the easy way to Yanguan. There was a Dutch couple also doing the same. I looked for the tourist office in Yanguan but it wasn’t where it should have been. The Dutch couple decided to spend the night there so I was told to catch the 106 bus going the other way and then get the local bus to Hangzhou. SUCCESS AT LAST!!! It took longer than the Lonely Planet said but it took me right back to Hangzhou for the princely sum of 30p. The bus also started running from Hangzhou at 05:15 so that was plenty time to get me to Yanguan.
I decided to go to the Taoist mountain, Qiyun Shan. I asked the girls at the hostel and again they wrote everything down so off I went to the bus station and on to the correct bus. Who needs to speak the language? This is getting too easy!!! The driver put me off and pointed in the right direction. Again it was very hot so I found the cable car - not too easy - and went up. The views were really good but the mountain looked pretty high and it was very hot so down I came. It was lovely in the village and so nice to get away from the city.
I then caught the bus to Yixian the opposite way to Tun Xi. It was a nice run but the town wasn’t very exciting. Having bought a watch as mine had broken, watched a man making noodles and had a stroll round the town where I was the afternoon matinee (I don’t think they got many tourists there), I caught the bus back. I missed the bus station as I was snoozing but the bus terminated at the Tun Xi railway station so it worked out fine!
16.07.09
I had a lazy day, touring the town via the local buses – I can recommend it as a very cheap way to see the sights.
17.07.09
The hostel booked the bus and hostel for Hangzhou. I was picked up at 08:30 and transferred to a bus going to Hangzhou. This was supposed to be air-conditioned but somewhere along the way it stopped working. I was sitting next to a little Chinese man. He was never still for more than a minute and every now and then his phone would ring. I don’t know if I mentioned the Chinese ringtones? They ARE VERY LOUD and very annoying. They ring for ages while the owner checks on the caller then shouts what sounds like ‘WEIGH’. I have never known any Chinese person speak quietly on the mobile!
I managed to get to the hostel via two buses and a lot of help. What a disappointment after the Koala Hostel! There were three sets of bunks and six lockers crammed into a room not much bigger than my bathroom and that’s small! Still, it was very clean and the shower was hot. Unfortunately for me there wasn’t a bottom bunk. The people at the hostel said that three French girls had the bottom bunks and maybe one would swap? They didn’t come in until 21:30 but one did swap and they were very nice about it.
Hangzhou 18.07.09
After buying breakfast at Carrefour, I set off on a mission to find the way to Yanguan to watch the eclipse. The Lonely Planet and the internet both said it was easy to get there and took about half an hour. The tourist office told me to go to the railway station and get the Shanghai train, getting off at Haining and then catch the 109 bus to Yanguan. The train alone took half an hour and then it was a further fifty minutes on the local bus (it was very cheap though!)
I found the River Viewing Park right outside the bus terminus and went up, only to be told ‘there is no river today’. I said I knew that but I wanted to see the river anyway. It was a lovely walk along the promenade and there was a nice breeze blowing – very refreshing. And yes, the river was there; quite wide and very muddy looking.
I caught the 106 back, only to be told it only went to the bus station and then I had to catch the express bus to Hangzhou which took another hour or so.
Yanguan was perfect to watch the eclipse but how to get there in good time for first contact at 08:23? I spent all Sunday trying to find a quicker way to get there but no joy.
20.07.09
I changed to the European Style Holiday Hotel early Monday morning. I’d booked this before I set off for China. I didn’t realize it was near the railway station until I spotted it from the station esplanade on the Saturday. The only thing European about the hotel was its name!! It was Chinese owned and run the Chinese way. The air-con was blowing warm, there was no fridge (although it said there was a mini ice-box) and no wardrobes, just a coat stand. There was a TV though. The bathroom was nice but all tiled so very slippery when wet. I complained about the air-con but it didn’t get fixed until late the next day. I asked if there was somewhere to dry my laundry. The girl on the desk said yes but the boy on the fifth floor said only in the bathroom. It looked very much like a Chinese laundry with all my garments hanging up in there!!!
I took the train to Ningbo as the Lonely Planet said it was a nice place to visit. It may have been when the LP reviewed it but now it was like all the other Chinese cities – in the process of being rebuilt!! Also very busy with lots of traffic. I had a lovely meal at a Lebanese restaurant. I think they added the bill up wrong (in my favour) but I cannot be sure.
I’d just missed a train back but as I’d boat a first class ticket I could stay in the soft seat lounge. It had very fierce air-con and I nearly froze to death but you do get to board the train before the second class people.
21.07.09
I decided to have one more go at finding the easy way to Yanguan. There was a Dutch couple also doing the same. I looked for the tourist office in Yanguan but it wasn’t where it should have been. The Dutch couple decided to spend the night there so I was told to catch the 106 bus going the other way and then get the local bus to Hangzhou. SUCCESS AT LAST!!! It took longer than the Lonely Planet said but it took me right back to Hangzhou for the princely sum of 30p. The bus also started running from Hangzhou at 05:15 so that was plenty time to get me to Yanguan.
Luang Prabang to Phonsavanh
Tuesday
I’d booked the trip to the waterfall and also the bus ticket to Phonsavanh. Although I was picked up in a nice minibus with plenty of room, we were all transferred to a Toyota Hi Ace containing 14 seats. As we were all not very small Europeans, it was a bit of a squash! The waterfalls were lovely and an easy climb to the top. However, on the way back, we were taken to ‘an eco-tourism village’. Honestly it was worse than going round a very badly managed zoo. The children were all on stalls calling ‘buy, buy, buy’ with their parents just looking on. It was degrading for them and very embarrassing for us. It should not be allowed.
There was a terrific storm in the evening so I went down the river to watch it. The sheet lightning was all around and then the rain started. Although I had an umbrella, I was soaked through. Luckily the guesthouse was close. After that, I had one last walk through the night market but as it had rained so hard, they were all closing up early.
Wednesday
The mini bus turned up to transport us to the bus station where a nice young man asked if I would like the front seat as there was as much room in the vehicle as head been the day before! Unfortunately there was also another seat but lucky for me a really slim Frenchman got in. It could have been one of the really large French ladies travelling in his group.
We went up and up and up and up into the mountains. After two hours we stopped for lunch. I have no idea how high we were but it must have been pretty high. We travelled along the mountain tops through various villages and after about four hours, there was a request for a toilet stop. There is no way I am going in any bushes as there may be snakes or anything in there.
We finally got to Phonsavanh to be met with a guy with rooms to let - shades of Greece and the Greek ferries. The guesthouse was next to the bus stop - it was clean with bathroom and TV. After checking in I went for something to eat. I spoke to a lady there, I think she was French. She is doing her PhD on the Plain of Jars so it was very interesting talking to her about the sites. She told me that a couple of the travel agencies had a monopoly on the tours and the tuk-tuk drivers were too scared to run tourists themselves! Although she said that I was being ripped off, I DID book a tour! I was only spending two nights there, it was necessary.
Thursday Plain of Jars
There were six of us on the tour so there was plenty room on the bus! It was a very enjoyable day with a tour round the three sites, a visit to a rice whiskey distillery (cottage industry moonshine I think!) and a lunch of noodle soup with chicken. The third site was through rice paddies and up a small hill. It was a beautiful walk. The guide told us the rain was coming so we had better be going back. As soon as I’d got in the hotel, the heavens opened and it bounced down for about two hours.
I went to and Indian restaurant for my evening meal as the Indian guy in Luang Nam Tha said it was his sister. It was. Her samosas were the best I have ever tasted and they just melted in the mouth.
The intellectual lady joined me while I was eating and we talked some more about the jars. I told her that in spite of her misgivings, our guide seemed quite knowledgeable.
I’d booked the trip to the waterfall and also the bus ticket to Phonsavanh. Although I was picked up in a nice minibus with plenty of room, we were all transferred to a Toyota Hi Ace containing 14 seats. As we were all not very small Europeans, it was a bit of a squash! The waterfalls were lovely and an easy climb to the top. However, on the way back, we were taken to ‘an eco-tourism village’. Honestly it was worse than going round a very badly managed zoo. The children were all on stalls calling ‘buy, buy, buy’ with their parents just looking on. It was degrading for them and very embarrassing for us. It should not be allowed.
There was a terrific storm in the evening so I went down the river to watch it. The sheet lightning was all around and then the rain started. Although I had an umbrella, I was soaked through. Luckily the guesthouse was close. After that, I had one last walk through the night market but as it had rained so hard, they were all closing up early.
Wednesday
The mini bus turned up to transport us to the bus station where a nice young man asked if I would like the front seat as there was as much room in the vehicle as head been the day before! Unfortunately there was also another seat but lucky for me a really slim Frenchman got in. It could have been one of the really large French ladies travelling in his group.
We went up and up and up and up into the mountains. After two hours we stopped for lunch. I have no idea how high we were but it must have been pretty high. We travelled along the mountain tops through various villages and after about four hours, there was a request for a toilet stop. There is no way I am going in any bushes as there may be snakes or anything in there.
We finally got to Phonsavanh to be met with a guy with rooms to let - shades of Greece and the Greek ferries. The guesthouse was next to the bus stop - it was clean with bathroom and TV. After checking in I went for something to eat. I spoke to a lady there, I think she was French. She is doing her PhD on the Plain of Jars so it was very interesting talking to her about the sites. She told me that a couple of the travel agencies had a monopoly on the tours and the tuk-tuk drivers were too scared to run tourists themselves! Although she said that I was being ripped off, I DID book a tour! I was only spending two nights there, it was necessary.
Thursday Plain of Jars
There were six of us on the tour so there was plenty room on the bus! It was a very enjoyable day with a tour round the three sites, a visit to a rice whiskey distillery (cottage industry moonshine I think!) and a lunch of noodle soup with chicken. The third site was through rice paddies and up a small hill. It was a beautiful walk. The guide told us the rain was coming so we had better be going back. As soon as I’d got in the hotel, the heavens opened and it bounced down for about two hours.
I went to and Indian restaurant for my evening meal as the Indian guy in Luang Nam Tha said it was his sister. It was. Her samosas were the best I have ever tasted and they just melted in the mouth.
The intellectual lady joined me while I was eating and we talked some more about the jars. I told her that in spite of her misgivings, our guide seemed quite knowledgeable.
Sunday 9 August 2009
Yuliang Village13.07.09
The Lonely Planet recommended Yuliang village as a nice day out. The girls at the hostel wrote out the instructions for the bus drivers in both English and Chinese and off I went to the long distance bus station with it clutched in my hot sticky hand. First I had to go Shexian and then get a tuk-tuk to the village. The ticket collector pointed to the ticket office where I bought the ticket with no hassle and then showed me to the correct bus – easy!
That’s when the fun started. The price had doubled in the last month although I asked for and got a discount because I was old. The girl then took me down to the river where the boat man asked for 40 yuan – the LP said 15. As I walked away, they called out 20 so I thought that was OK. Getting on to the boat, my purse dropped into the water. Luckily it wasn’t deep and it was rescued. The guy rowing me must have been 95 if he was a day, the boat was rather big and it was very hot. I felt a bit sorry for him but as he had tried to rip me off, the sympathy didn’t last too long. It was nice on the water but got a bit boring after ten minutes. When we got back, he asked me if I wanted to eat and took me to a place in the village = probably his daughter. I ordered pork and vegetables plus a beer (as always). The pork was just chunks of fat with a small amount of meat and the greens had just about been dipped in lukewarm water! The beer was fine though – she couldn’t spoil that. I asked for the bill and she demanded 50 yuan. I’ve never paid that in the city, never mind in a tiny village. I only had a 50 note otherwise I would have given her 25 and left it at that. I settled for 35 and got my change. As you can imagine, I was not impressed.
While I was walking down the main street (I’m not sure if they had more than one), I met a woman priest in white robes and a young man. We said hello and passed by. When I got to the bottom of the street, it was the way into the village off the road and I needn’t have paid.
I was walking down the road when a car stopped. It was the boy and the priest, offering me a lift. I got in and he spoke to someone on his mobile. We stopped near some apartments and he asked if I would like a drink of water. Now I have been had before by people offering drinks and services then demanding payment. I asked what is would cost me and he said nothing and his family would like to meet me. I could have been used for a ritual sacrifice for all I knew but it would not have been as a vestal virgin that’s for sure!!!
Anyway, I was made most welcome and I was told that the priest was their master. Next thing the table had been laid and I was invited to join them. The food was delicious as was the beer. It was only the young man who could speak English but the family came from Shanghai and from what I could gather were importers and exporters. I asked if I could take some photos and was told it was OK so we had groups with them and them with me. I said I would send them on when I could. I did try from Luang Nam Tha but the internet was too slow. I then sent an email saying I would forward them on from England and the young man has replied.
The uncle offered to drive me to the bus station and then paid my fare. What had been a really bad day had turned round into an excellent one.
That’s when the fun started. The price had doubled in the last month although I asked for and got a discount because I was old. The girl then took me down to the river where the boat man asked for 40 yuan – the LP said 15. As I walked away, they called out 20 so I thought that was OK. Getting on to the boat, my purse dropped into the water. Luckily it wasn’t deep and it was rescued. The guy rowing me must have been 95 if he was a day, the boat was rather big and it was very hot. I felt a bit sorry for him but as he had tried to rip me off, the sympathy didn’t last too long. It was nice on the water but got a bit boring after ten minutes. When we got back, he asked me if I wanted to eat and took me to a place in the village = probably his daughter. I ordered pork and vegetables plus a beer (as always). The pork was just chunks of fat with a small amount of meat and the greens had just about been dipped in lukewarm water! The beer was fine though – she couldn’t spoil that. I asked for the bill and she demanded 50 yuan. I’ve never paid that in the city, never mind in a tiny village. I only had a 50 note otherwise I would have given her 25 and left it at that. I settled for 35 and got my change. As you can imagine, I was not impressed.
While I was walking down the main street (I’m not sure if they had more than one), I met a woman priest in white robes and a young man. We said hello and passed by. When I got to the bottom of the street, it was the way into the village off the road and I needn’t have paid.
I was walking down the road when a car stopped. It was the boy and the priest, offering me a lift. I got in and he spoke to someone on his mobile. We stopped near some apartments and he asked if I would like a drink of water. Now I have been had before by people offering drinks and services then demanding payment. I asked what is would cost me and he said nothing and his family would like to meet me. I could have been used for a ritual sacrifice for all I knew but it would not have been as a vestal virgin that’s for sure!!!
Anyway, I was made most welcome and I was told that the priest was their master. Next thing the table had been laid and I was invited to join them. The food was delicious as was the beer. It was only the young man who could speak English but the family came from Shanghai and from what I could gather were importers and exporters. I asked if I could take some photos and was told it was OK so we had groups with them and them with me. I said I would send them on when I could. I did try from Luang Nam Tha but the internet was too slow. I then sent an email saying I would forward them on from England and the young man has replied.
The uncle offered to drive me to the bus station and then paid my fare. What had been a really bad day had turned round into an excellent one.
Luang Nam Tha to Luang Prabang Friday 06-08-09
Luckily for me the rain kept bouncing down so I didn’t hire a motor bike after all – probably saved me from killing myself!! My feet have been blistered and then more blisters on top so doing nothing has given them the chance to heal up. None of the shoes are new so I don’t know why that happened.
I’d had a meal with Gutcher, the Korean guy the night before. He’d said he was hitch-hiking to Thailand the next morning. I met him again while I was having breakfast and he said because of the rain he would be catching the bus with the two boys from Hong Kong.
The bus from Nam Tha to Prabang left from the bus station at the end of town so we had to get on the pick-up truck bus. I was afraid I would show myself up but it was a lot easier than I thought.
There were several Europeans on the bus so at least it helped the time pass quickly. The bus was a real old bone-shaker with really hard seats and the roads are not the smooth tarmac I am used to!!! However, it was a beautiful day and the scenery was spectacular again as we went up and down mountains and through tiny villages with houses on stilts. The air conditioning was open windows and huge fans on the ceiling of the bus. It was really noisy.
A lorry had gone over the edge of the road but luckily for the driver, he only went into a ditch and it was lying on its side. About two hours into the journey, the bus stopped at the top of the hill for a toilet stop. The men all lined up by the side of the road while the women went into the bushes! An hour later we stopped at Oudomxay where there were proper toilets for me (when I say proper, I mean the squat type) and they were absolutely spotless. We stayed there to get some lunch but I passed on that as did all the other westerners. The offerings were barbecued parsons' noses on sticks or roast intestines from God knows what!
Again we stopped on the top of a mountain, this time for everyone to buy cucumbers! There were about six stalls all with just cucumbers and one with some furry animals. They were about the size of a large guinea pig with wicked looking buck teeth and a hairless tail which was quite broad at the base then looked like a rat’s tail but not as long. A man bought one and took it on the bus in a wicker basket. I asked him if he would eat it and he said yes. Speaking to someone on Saturday, he said it was probably a mole.
When we arrived at Luang Prabang, the tuk-tuk drivers just descended on us, asking ridiculous sums to drive us into the city. The Austrian guy decided all ten of us would fit in one. He was right but it was a struggle!!!
I walked round to the guesthouse I had chosen from the Lonely Planet, asked if they had a room and was shown one on the ground floor with fan and hot water shower in the bathroom and it cost 60,000 kip, about five pounds. It was a nice quiet location, one street back from the Mekong River. Perfect. The owner said that there was free tea, coffee and water plus free bananas! What more do you want for your money? The bed was comfortable too.
I walked back through the night market to get something to eat then went back, had another beer and was in bed for 10 pm.
Saturday
Early to bed and all that jazz – my eyes pinged open at 5 am. I got up, showered and went out. The owner was already up and showed me where to go on the map. I walked to the Mekong than along and round the peninsula, found JoMa café and had some proper bread for breakfast. I got talking to a man near the temple who was fixing a racing boat for the festival later this month. Apparently it’s a really big thing but not until the 20th but I cannot stay here until then. I passed the museum where they were selling tickets for the Royal Ballet’s performance that evening so I booked a ticket and then carried on until I got to where the Nam Khan flows into the Mekong. A short stroll by the Mekong brought me back to the guesthouse. The place is quite small.
The daughter at the guesthouse is starting to do breakfasts from next week and had written out a menu. She asked me what I thought about it and as there were a couple of minor mistakes, I asked if they would mind it I corrected them? That was fine, so I also showed her how to format it and it looked even better! I’ve got to stick my nose in!
I was undecided whether to go to the waterfalls that afternoon or go for a massage. It started raining so massage it was! I went to the Lao Red Cross for the massage. All proceeds go to helping train people in the villages to do first aid and also to improve water and toilet facilities. A very worthy cause and an excellent massage too! The girls on the ticket desk were killing themselves laughing at me as I climbed the steps up. I must admit I felt so much better after an hour’s pummeling!
I went back to the guesthouse to get ready for the theatre and was sitting having a beer (like you do) when a really excited Dutch girl came rushing up. She’d been on an afternoon’s weaving course and had made a patterned silk scarf and she had had ‘the best time ever’. She was absolutely full of it. They also do cookery classes and tie-dying, with all the proceeds helping to keep the traditional skills going.
I went to the theatre and luckily the performance was fairly short. I have no doubt that they were very good but I didn’t really understand it. It looked very Siamese style with temple music consisting of about six notes.
I bought a sandwich off a stall on my way back as I couldn’t be bothered to get a proper meal.
Sunday
I got up very early (4:15) to see the monks’ procession where they receive alms from the local people. As it is a religious ceremony, tourists are asked to respect this and keep their distance and not use flash. I was standing a fair way back when this German woman rushed up to the monks and proceeded to flash away. Obviously the rules didn’t apply to her!
As it was still reasonably cool so I walked up 328 steps to see the view from the top of Phu Si, where there is a small temple. Although I took it very slowly, it was still a hot, sweaty climb to the top. It was well worth all the effort as there was still some early morning mist around the mountains although the sun was well up by that time. I had breakfast at one of the cafes nearby – just a continental breakfast but the small baguettes came warm and sliced and Lao coffee, although very dark, is not as strong as it looks and is delicious.
Fed and watered, it was on to the Royal Palace museum and then to Wat Xieng Thong, the largest in the town. It was getting pretty warm by now as the sun was well up so it was slowly back to the guesthouse. I don’t have a watch as I lost mine at the Tropical Botanical Gardens in China so I was really surprised to find out it was only 10:30 am!! I went back to bed for a couple of hours!!!
I have booked a trip the waterfalls tomorrow and then I will leave for Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars on Tuesday before heading south to Vientiane a couple of days later (unless someone tells me of a fantastic place I really must visit).
I’d had a meal with Gutcher, the Korean guy the night before. He’d said he was hitch-hiking to Thailand the next morning. I met him again while I was having breakfast and he said because of the rain he would be catching the bus with the two boys from Hong Kong.
The bus from Nam Tha to Prabang left from the bus station at the end of town so we had to get on the pick-up truck bus. I was afraid I would show myself up but it was a lot easier than I thought.
There were several Europeans on the bus so at least it helped the time pass quickly. The bus was a real old bone-shaker with really hard seats and the roads are not the smooth tarmac I am used to!!! However, it was a beautiful day and the scenery was spectacular again as we went up and down mountains and through tiny villages with houses on stilts. The air conditioning was open windows and huge fans on the ceiling of the bus. It was really noisy.
A lorry had gone over the edge of the road but luckily for the driver, he only went into a ditch and it was lying on its side. About two hours into the journey, the bus stopped at the top of the hill for a toilet stop. The men all lined up by the side of the road while the women went into the bushes! An hour later we stopped at Oudomxay where there were proper toilets for me (when I say proper, I mean the squat type) and they were absolutely spotless. We stayed there to get some lunch but I passed on that as did all the other westerners. The offerings were barbecued parsons' noses on sticks or roast intestines from God knows what!
Again we stopped on the top of a mountain, this time for everyone to buy cucumbers! There were about six stalls all with just cucumbers and one with some furry animals. They were about the size of a large guinea pig with wicked looking buck teeth and a hairless tail which was quite broad at the base then looked like a rat’s tail but not as long. A man bought one and took it on the bus in a wicker basket. I asked him if he would eat it and he said yes. Speaking to someone on Saturday, he said it was probably a mole.
When we arrived at Luang Prabang, the tuk-tuk drivers just descended on us, asking ridiculous sums to drive us into the city. The Austrian guy decided all ten of us would fit in one. He was right but it was a struggle!!!
I walked round to the guesthouse I had chosen from the Lonely Planet, asked if they had a room and was shown one on the ground floor with fan and hot water shower in the bathroom and it cost 60,000 kip, about five pounds. It was a nice quiet location, one street back from the Mekong River. Perfect. The owner said that there was free tea, coffee and water plus free bananas! What more do you want for your money? The bed was comfortable too.
I walked back through the night market to get something to eat then went back, had another beer and was in bed for 10 pm.
Saturday
Early to bed and all that jazz – my eyes pinged open at 5 am. I got up, showered and went out. The owner was already up and showed me where to go on the map. I walked to the Mekong than along and round the peninsula, found JoMa café and had some proper bread for breakfast. I got talking to a man near the temple who was fixing a racing boat for the festival later this month. Apparently it’s a really big thing but not until the 20th but I cannot stay here until then. I passed the museum where they were selling tickets for the Royal Ballet’s performance that evening so I booked a ticket and then carried on until I got to where the Nam Khan flows into the Mekong. A short stroll by the Mekong brought me back to the guesthouse. The place is quite small.
The daughter at the guesthouse is starting to do breakfasts from next week and had written out a menu. She asked me what I thought about it and as there were a couple of minor mistakes, I asked if they would mind it I corrected them? That was fine, so I also showed her how to format it and it looked even better! I’ve got to stick my nose in!
I was undecided whether to go to the waterfalls that afternoon or go for a massage. It started raining so massage it was! I went to the Lao Red Cross for the massage. All proceeds go to helping train people in the villages to do first aid and also to improve water and toilet facilities. A very worthy cause and an excellent massage too! The girls on the ticket desk were killing themselves laughing at me as I climbed the steps up. I must admit I felt so much better after an hour’s pummeling!
I went back to the guesthouse to get ready for the theatre and was sitting having a beer (like you do) when a really excited Dutch girl came rushing up. She’d been on an afternoon’s weaving course and had made a patterned silk scarf and she had had ‘the best time ever’. She was absolutely full of it. They also do cookery classes and tie-dying, with all the proceeds helping to keep the traditional skills going.
I went to the theatre and luckily the performance was fairly short. I have no doubt that they were very good but I didn’t really understand it. It looked very Siamese style with temple music consisting of about six notes.
I bought a sandwich off a stall on my way back as I couldn’t be bothered to get a proper meal.
Sunday
I got up very early (4:15) to see the monks’ procession where they receive alms from the local people. As it is a religious ceremony, tourists are asked to respect this and keep their distance and not use flash. I was standing a fair way back when this German woman rushed up to the monks and proceeded to flash away. Obviously the rules didn’t apply to her!
As it was still reasonably cool so I walked up 328 steps to see the view from the top of Phu Si, where there is a small temple. Although I took it very slowly, it was still a hot, sweaty climb to the top. It was well worth all the effort as there was still some early morning mist around the mountains although the sun was well up by that time. I had breakfast at one of the cafes nearby – just a continental breakfast but the small baguettes came warm and sliced and Lao coffee, although very dark, is not as strong as it looks and is delicious.
Fed and watered, it was on to the Royal Palace museum and then to Wat Xieng Thong, the largest in the town. It was getting pretty warm by now as the sun was well up so it was slowly back to the guesthouse. I don’t have a watch as I lost mine at the Tropical Botanical Gardens in China so I was really surprised to find out it was only 10:30 am!! I went back to bed for a couple of hours!!!
I have booked a trip the waterfalls tomorrow and then I will leave for Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars on Tuesday before heading south to Vientiane a couple of days later (unless someone tells me of a fantastic place I really must visit).
Thursday 6 August 2009
Updates
Tuesday 07-07-09
As the rain is absolutely bouncing down, I have decided to update the blog from the beginning. Luckily I kept a diary as I couldn't access the blog.
I will start with Manchester to Shanghai.
The flights were pretty good although going via Qatar is quite a long way round. Somehow or another it seems that I ordered low sodium meals so all in all I had four of them during the 19 hours. Their idea of low sodium certainly isn't mine but as it was sort of special, you do get served first!
When we arrived at Shanghai we were told to keep our seats as a medical team were coming to check everyone's temperature due to the swine flu epidemic. When they got on they were all dressed in decontamination suits complete with masks and headgear. I have a couple of photos on DVD but seem unable to access them at the moment. It took ages before they finished but by the time we had cleared the Health Check desk and Immigration, the baggage was on the carousel.
I had decided I would take the maglev train which was a mistake really as I should have chosen the hotel bus. However, I knew best!! As well as the maglev I had to transfer to the metro. By this time it was rush hour so when I tried for a taxi after the metro there was no chance. I asked for directions and was told it wasn't very far to walk. No it wasn't very far if you were not carrying a backpack and pulling along a small case and the temperature wasn't 90C!! I was absolutely wet through to my money and passport in my moneybelt! I had warned the hotel that I may be later than 6 pm so that wasn't a problem. I checked in, had a shower, put my clothes in the hotel laundrey bag and went looking for something to eat. The only place open was KFC so that had to do. Although Yu Gardens, where the hotel was, is a famous tourist spot, everything closes at 9pm. again, I have photos but cannot access them.
Wednesday 08-07-09
I got up bright and early to go and people watch on the Bund. Wrong!!! Shanghai is hosting Expo 2010 next year and everything is being rebuilt, renovated or new buildings going up - and no access to the Bund. My love affair with Shanghai is definitely over, at least until after Expo 2010, when hopefully the city will go back to a place I enjoy.
I decided to move on to Tun Xi as soon as I could find the correct bus station to book a ticket. That was a task and a half too! I was told it was 'just around the corner' - yeah right! Luckily a nice policeman collared a young man and asked him where he was going and as he was passing the bus station he took me to it. I would never have found it on my own. Anyway, mission accomplished I could relax for a couple of days and wander around the city. I'd already done the touristy things the other times I had been so I decided to look at the shops. I enjoy getting on buses (they usually cost about 20p) and just ride to the end, have a wander round and then come back. This is fine if you don't wander too far from the bus route, but taxis are quite cheap to get you back to where you started! I've found some really nice places doing that (as well as some really grotty spots!) Plus the buses are air-conditioned which is a bonus when it is so hot outside.
Next instalment
Shanghai to Tun Xi 10-07-09
Finding the bus station was easy this time - I took a taxi although he dropped me quite a way off due to the one way system.
The bus journey took about six hours and I bet two of those was to get out of Shanghai. It just seemed to go on forever.
When we arrived at Tun Xi dus station I was told that was as far as it went. I said it was supposed to go to the long distance bus station. A woman who spoke reasonable English asked where my hotel was? I said I wanted to go to the Koala Hostel in the old town. She said it was very far away and it would probably be full. However, lucky for me she had a room for 80 yuan and it wasn't far. It was mentioned in the Lonely Planet so it cannot be too bad. She showed me three rooms - all had air-con and a TV. The first had no loo, the second had a squat one and the third, which I took had a proper one, all be it in a miniscule bathroom. It was in need of a coat of paint but it was absolutely spotless, unlike the Classical Hotel in Shanghai which was four and a half times the price. That was in need of a real good bottoming (as you all know, I am so houseproud!). I spilt some water on the carpet and mopped it up with the bath mat. Wrong move as I then had to wash the bath mat out.
The woman took me to a restaurant nearby and I had a good meal for pennies as well as a Snow beer - the local brew.
I got up early the next morning and walked into town. I eventually found the Koala Hostel and booked in from Sunday. All the staff spoke very good English as university students all sign up with the hostels during the summer holiday so they could practice there English. The old town was pretty interesting but I thought I would save the bulk of the exploring until I was actually staying there. The staff told me which bus to catch to the first hotel and that it would cost me 1 yuan.
As it was pretty hot I went back to pack and have a siesta - what else can you do?
Sunday 12.07.09
I walked round the corner and got a taxi to the old town. First thing I had to do at the hostel was book a trip for the following day to the ancient villages of Hon Cun and Xi Di. I'd seen Xi Di on a Chinese TV programme and it looked really interesting but it hadn't been in any of the guide books. It was cheaper and certainly a lot easier to book the trip through the hostel and I even got a discount because I am old!! There are some advantages.
The laundry had been building up so I used the hostel washing machine and hung it on the roof terrace. You would think that because it is so hot, things would dry quickly. They take two days because of the humidity. I finally managed to get on the internet that day too.
The hostel was really nice. There were two sets of bunks (with softish mattresses) in the room and a locker each with a shower room was bigger than my bathroom. I managed to get a bottom bunk as I am know my mountaineering days are over.
Monday
All ready for the trip out. It was in a seven seater car and they let me sit in the front. That was a waste of time as I promptly fell asleep and only woke up when we got to Hon Cun. We had about one and half hours to wander round which was long enough in the heat. I filled in a visitor questionnaire when asked and then had my photo taken with some young boys. This happens quite a lot as they all want there pictures taken with foreigners. Why I don't know.
We had a lunch booked at 12 noon so it was hurry hurry to get there and then it was off to Xi Di. Yixian has a river and you could see all sorts of people going down it on rubber dinghies. It looked really good, especially in the heat but I have no wish to do it.
Xi Di was every bit as attractive and interesting as I expected so it didn't disappoint me. On the way back to Tun Xi we made a stop at a Chinese herbal medicine factory - it sure beat the usual tourist tack places! A good day was had by all.
As the rain is absolutely bouncing down, I have decided to update the blog from the beginning. Luckily I kept a diary as I couldn't access the blog.
I will start with Manchester to Shanghai.
The flights were pretty good although going via Qatar is quite a long way round. Somehow or another it seems that I ordered low sodium meals so all in all I had four of them during the 19 hours. Their idea of low sodium certainly isn't mine but as it was sort of special, you do get served first!
When we arrived at Shanghai we were told to keep our seats as a medical team were coming to check everyone's temperature due to the swine flu epidemic. When they got on they were all dressed in decontamination suits complete with masks and headgear. I have a couple of photos on DVD but seem unable to access them at the moment. It took ages before they finished but by the time we had cleared the Health Check desk and Immigration, the baggage was on the carousel.
I had decided I would take the maglev train which was a mistake really as I should have chosen the hotel bus. However, I knew best!! As well as the maglev I had to transfer to the metro. By this time it was rush hour so when I tried for a taxi after the metro there was no chance. I asked for directions and was told it wasn't very far to walk. No it wasn't very far if you were not carrying a backpack and pulling along a small case and the temperature wasn't 90C!! I was absolutely wet through to my money and passport in my moneybelt! I had warned the hotel that I may be later than 6 pm so that wasn't a problem. I checked in, had a shower, put my clothes in the hotel laundrey bag and went looking for something to eat. The only place open was KFC so that had to do. Although Yu Gardens, where the hotel was, is a famous tourist spot, everything closes at 9pm. again, I have photos but cannot access them.
Wednesday 08-07-09
I got up bright and early to go and people watch on the Bund. Wrong!!! Shanghai is hosting Expo 2010 next year and everything is being rebuilt, renovated or new buildings going up - and no access to the Bund. My love affair with Shanghai is definitely over, at least until after Expo 2010, when hopefully the city will go back to a place I enjoy.
I decided to move on to Tun Xi as soon as I could find the correct bus station to book a ticket. That was a task and a half too! I was told it was 'just around the corner' - yeah right! Luckily a nice policeman collared a young man and asked him where he was going and as he was passing the bus station he took me to it. I would never have found it on my own. Anyway, mission accomplished I could relax for a couple of days and wander around the city. I'd already done the touristy things the other times I had been so I decided to look at the shops. I enjoy getting on buses (they usually cost about 20p) and just ride to the end, have a wander round and then come back. This is fine if you don't wander too far from the bus route, but taxis are quite cheap to get you back to where you started! I've found some really nice places doing that (as well as some really grotty spots!) Plus the buses are air-conditioned which is a bonus when it is so hot outside.
Next instalment
Shanghai to Tun Xi 10-07-09
Finding the bus station was easy this time - I took a taxi although he dropped me quite a way off due to the one way system.
The bus journey took about six hours and I bet two of those was to get out of Shanghai. It just seemed to go on forever.
When we arrived at Tun Xi dus station I was told that was as far as it went. I said it was supposed to go to the long distance bus station. A woman who spoke reasonable English asked where my hotel was? I said I wanted to go to the Koala Hostel in the old town. She said it was very far away and it would probably be full. However, lucky for me she had a room for 80 yuan and it wasn't far. It was mentioned in the Lonely Planet so it cannot be too bad. She showed me three rooms - all had air-con and a TV. The first had no loo, the second had a squat one and the third, which I took had a proper one, all be it in a miniscule bathroom. It was in need of a coat of paint but it was absolutely spotless, unlike the Classical Hotel in Shanghai which was four and a half times the price. That was in need of a real good bottoming (as you all know, I am so houseproud!). I spilt some water on the carpet and mopped it up with the bath mat. Wrong move as I then had to wash the bath mat out.
The woman took me to a restaurant nearby and I had a good meal for pennies as well as a Snow beer - the local brew.
I got up early the next morning and walked into town. I eventually found the Koala Hostel and booked in from Sunday. All the staff spoke very good English as university students all sign up with the hostels during the summer holiday so they could practice there English. The old town was pretty interesting but I thought I would save the bulk of the exploring until I was actually staying there. The staff told me which bus to catch to the first hotel and that it would cost me 1 yuan.
As it was pretty hot I went back to pack and have a siesta - what else can you do?
Sunday 12.07.09
I walked round the corner and got a taxi to the old town. First thing I had to do at the hostel was book a trip for the following day to the ancient villages of Hon Cun and Xi Di. I'd seen Xi Di on a Chinese TV programme and it looked really interesting but it hadn't been in any of the guide books. It was cheaper and certainly a lot easier to book the trip through the hostel and I even got a discount because I am old!! There are some advantages.
The laundry had been building up so I used the hostel washing machine and hung it on the roof terrace. You would think that because it is so hot, things would dry quickly. They take two days because of the humidity. I finally managed to get on the internet that day too.
The hostel was really nice. There were two sets of bunks (with softish mattresses) in the room and a locker each with a shower room was bigger than my bathroom. I managed to get a bottom bunk as I am know my mountaineering days are over.
Monday
All ready for the trip out. It was in a seven seater car and they let me sit in the front. That was a waste of time as I promptly fell asleep and only woke up when we got to Hon Cun. We had about one and half hours to wander round which was long enough in the heat. I filled in a visitor questionnaire when asked and then had my photo taken with some young boys. This happens quite a lot as they all want there pictures taken with foreigners. Why I don't know.
We had a lunch booked at 12 noon so it was hurry hurry to get there and then it was off to Xi Di. Yixian has a river and you could see all sorts of people going down it on rubber dinghies. It looked really good, especially in the heat but I have no wish to do it.
Xi Di was every bit as attractive and interesting as I expected so it didn't disappoint me. On the way back to Tun Xi we made a stop at a Chinese herbal medicine factory - it sure beat the usual tourist tack places! A good day was had by all.
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