Hoi An to Hue and Hanoi

07-09-09

The rain had stopped by teatime and I decided to go to the waterfront for the evening meal. I had fish grilled in a banana leaf and it was delicious. The rain bounced down while I was eating so my feet were soaked again as I walked back to the guesthouse. The restaurant was advertising two for one during happy hour and that was a good enough excuse to go and have gin and tonic. They obviously don't serve them very often as there was quite a bit of panic over the order. I finally got them to bring me some ice after a whole lot of talking with the waitress.

Hue 08-09-09

The bus arrived early for Hue and I was told to get on it quickly. I hadn't paid for my room so he had to wait. We then drove round the corner where I had to get off! I could have walked.

The bus was the sleeper bus from Nha Trang and I thought it smelt of sweaty feet until I realised that the smell was coming from my still wet sandals. Rather disgusting!

I'd booked my room on the internet the day before so the guy from the hotel picked me up from the bus station, which was very handy. He'd already met three buses as I hadn't told him which one I would be on, only that it was coming from Hoi An. The only room for $12 (including breakfast) was on the fourth floor - eighty steps up. It was a lovely room and she offered to change to a lower floor the next day. It also had a bath which was a lovely change. Unfortunately I could only get a small amount of hot water to run into the bath.

I was informed that there was a big supermarket near by so off I set with my trusty umbrella as it was still raining. I found it easy enough but was told that I had to put my umbrella and book in the lockers - fair enough. Then when I went to go in again, I was told that my handbag had to be sealed in a plastic bag!! That was going a bit too far and I took my things and went off in a huff!

I walked then over the Perfumed River and found another supermarket where the treatment was totally different! I was just waved through with bags and umbrella. The rain had stopped when I came out and it turned into a lovely afternoon.

09-09-09

I got up nice and early, had breakfast (which was included in the room price as long as you didn't order too much!) and went to the Citadel - another world heritage site. That was really enjoyable and took all morning to explore. (I hadn't bothered changing rooms as it was too much trouble). I went back to the hotel and had a rest as it was really hot in the afternoon. I then picked up my laundry, booked my ticket to Hanoi for the next night and also booked for a river trip to see some villages and tombs. I went on the internet to book a room at Citygate Hotel as it was highly recommended by the Lonely Planet. There were several reviews on the hotel - all bad - so I emailed Hanoibackpackers Hostel instead and asked for a dorm bed. As it was much cooler by then I took a walk down my the river, which was really pleasant.

When I got back to the hotel after dinner, I saw someone who'd been everywhere I'd been - Saigon, Da Lat and Hoi An. He was travelling with his friend and they were both Belgian. It was only polite to sit and have a drink with them!

10-09-09

I got picked up for the trip and dropped off at another hotel where I was asked if I would like to transfer to another tour going to the Citadel and then the tombs. It didn't include a sail up the river so I said no, along with a French couple. We were then walked down to the river and put on a boat. It was a lovely sail so I'm glad I did it. We saw a kung fu demonstration, then a couple of temples and pagodas. I was saving myself for the tombs so just sat quietly by the river instead of climbing up lots of stairs! Lunch was included with the fare - noodles, rice, vegetables and tofu. Quite tasty but could have eaten more!

I'm glad I saved myself as there were many stairs up to the two emperors' tombs but they were well worth the effort. The first one was typically Vietnamese but the second one had been designed by French and Chinese architects so it was completely different. They were both excellent. After that we went to see a village where they made conical hats and incense sticks. The latter must be the most boring job on earth as she just rolled some paste round a stick and then started on the next one!

I got back about 4:30, just in time to have a sandwich before catching the night bus at 6 pm. Usually you are allocated beds on the night bus but not on this one. There was only one down bed left and I sat on that one. I was told I couldn't have that but the guy was told there was no way I could climb up to the top beds and I was stopping there. I could have climbed up but the beds are quite narrow and you get thrown about a lot on the top bunks (at least that is what I've been told). So far, that was the least comfortable bus and the driver never took his hand off the horn of all night! Plus I think he deliberately found all the potholes and ramps.

Hanoi 11-09-09

While I was checking in, a guy was told that the Halong Bay was cancelled due to bad weather. I think it is following me! My dorm is on the second floor with six beds in but only mine is occupied at the moment.

My backpack was looking the worse for wear (it is ten years old) and my trainers have a couple of tears in them and Hanoi apparently is the city to replace them. I got instructions off the girl on the desk and went looking for the shops.

I should have worn my trainers with the orthotics in as it was no good trying shoes on without them. I saw a nice backpack, 55 litres, supposedly North Face for ten pounds. It's bigger than my present one but didn't look it. I said I would be back, got my old trainers and went looking for some new ones. I tried on several pairs and settled for a pair of Nikes as they felt the most comfortable. They cost me fifteen pounds after I'd bargained a bit! I think they may be seconds as some of the eyelet holes need punching through. A guy at the hotel looked at the soles and said they looked genuine enough. I don't care if the are or not as long as they are comfortable!

It's about 3 pm and although it has rained a little, it hasn't been as bad as forecast. That may come later. I've got my umbrella and I am now off to do some more exploring.